You can enjoy kolokotes as snack, complemented with yogurt, labne, or fresh cheese; drizzled with honey, date or any fruit molasses they become a lovely dessert. 

Marilena Ioannides’ recipe is by far the best I have tried –and I did try lots over the years. She bakes the pies on camera –speaking Greek with no subtitles, unfortunately; but consulting my recipe below you can easily follow and understand how to make these simple, exquisite pies.

To collect the old, traditional dishes she included in her book Cyprus Food Treasures, Marilena traveled all over the island, even to the remotest villages, and managed to find some incredible dishes! Often they are the missing link between age-old foods we read about in old manuscripts and the more recent variations we still encounter in parts of Greece or in other parts of the Eastern Mediterranean.

NOTE in the video as she prepares the pies leisurely, in real time, she weighs all ingredients –even the olive oil and water– as she adds them, one by one in the bowl of the mixer, zeroing her electronic scale just before adding a new item. This is a wonderful trick that helps cooks use a minimum of  bowls and other measuring utensils. 

My recipe is adapted from Marilena Ioannides’ Kolokotes. I have increased the amount of raisins and doubled the pepper; also substituted fennel seeds for the fresh wild fennel she suggests.

Makes 6 large pies

For the DOUGH:

1 pound bread flour or a combination of pasta flour and all purpose flour

1 teaspoon sea salt

70 grams olive oil

250 grams very hot or boiling water —the secret to make smooth, elastic dough

For the FILLING:

2 pounds butternut squash, peeled and seeded

1 1/2 teaspoon sea salt

100 grams bulgur (medium not fine)

150 grams raisins

30 grams olive oil

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 -1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper (I like it peppery)

1 teaspoon coarsely ground fennel seeds

Make the dough tossing the flour, salt, and olive oil in the bowl of a standing mixer. With the motor running pour in the hot water on the side, and work to obtain a soft, slightly sticky dough. Wrap in oiled plastic wrap and set aside. You can make the dough the previous day, refrigerate, wrapped, and bring to room temperature before proceeding further.

For the filling cut the squash in very thin slices, then in small cubes, matchsticks, or any kind of tiny bits. Add salt, olive oil and the raisins, then work with your hands to somewhat soften the squash.

Stir in the bulgur, cinnamon, pepper, and fennel seeds, and toss well to mix. 

Divide the dough into 6 pieces. (Marilena makes 7 pies but I find it difficult to divide the dough into an even number; I only use the scale for the filling).   

Preheat the oven to 150C  (about 300F) in convection mode. 

Roll each piece into roughly a 25 cm round, and place one sixth of the filling in the center, weighing all the filling  dividing the number into 6, then portioning and weighing 1/6th for each pie. Stir the filling each time before you take a portion as the moisture tends to go to the bottom.

Fold the round of dough to cover the filling; seal and crimp the edge, making sure the pie is completely closed so that the squash, bulgur etc. bake and steam inside the crust. Place the pies carefully on baking trays lined with parchment paper, and bake in the middle of the oven for 45 min to 1 h –until lightly colored on top and bottom.

If you bake both pans at the same time, change positions after 30 minutes, turning also the pans back to front.

Let the kolokotes cool on a rack or on thick kitchen towels before cutting to eat.

The flavor is infinitely better after they are completely cold, and I find that it is even better the next day! 

Keep on the counter for 2-3 days, if you manage to resist devouring them. You can also freeze and slowly reheat any leftover pies. 

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Now I wend a long way east, taking inspiration from a very interesting recipe in Serious Eats.

“There’s a lot going on in the marinade, but one of the standouts—arguably even the key ingredient—is anchovy-based Vietnamese fish sauce, or nuoc mam,” write Emily and Matt Clifton. “Lime, ginger, and fish sauce add bold, bright, deep flavor to chicken,” they point out.

Unfortunately, I couldn’t find the particular fish sauce they mention, so I used the standard Thai fish sauce (nam pla) available at the Asian food stores in Greece. Limes are, again, an imported fruit that we can only get on Kea in the summer, when bars and the more sophisticated restaurants use it. I only had the local fragrant lemons, which, I must admit, are quite different in flavor; I decided to combine lemon and orange in my recipe.

I didn’t discard the very flavorful Vietnamese-inspired marinade but used it as the sauce to bake both the chicken as well as the accompanying vegetables, potatoes, some of our last garden peppers, and squash, drizzling with olive oil, as I usually do.

I think you will like this deep-flavored, easy chickenand vegetable dish as much as Costas and I did…

Serves 4 

About 2 1/2 pounds (1 kilo 250 grams) chicken, spatchcocked

The MARINADE

1/4 cup (60ml) soy sauce

1/4 cup (60ml) Asian fish sauce

1/4 (60ml) sunflower oil

2 packed tablespoons (7g) fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems, finely chopped (optional)

¼ cup (60ml) fresh lemon juice

¼ cup (60ml) fresh orange juice

1 teaspoon (5g) finely grated zest from 1 orange

3 tablespoon (30g) minced peeled fresh ginger

2 tablespoons smoked hot pepper, or Aleppo pepper flakes

4 medium cloves garlic, minced or grated (about 4 teaspoons)

The VEGETABLES etc. 

3 medium baking potatoes peeled and cut into about 1 ½-inch pieces

1 pound peeled and seeded butternut squash cut into about 1 ½ -inch pieces

1 large red bell pepper seeded and thinly sliced

2 small, sliced oranges, plus 1 orange peeled, quartered and sliced

About 1/3 cup olive oil

Cilantro leaves, for garnish (optional)

Lay the chicken on a parchment-lined plate or pan, or place in a large zipper-lock bag, if you plan to refrigerate it with the marinade.

In a medium bowl, whisk together soy sauce, fish sauce, oil, cilantro, if using, lemon and orange juice and zest, ginger, smoked or hot pepper, and garlic. Pour half the marinade over the chicken, and massage to make sure it coats well the entire front and back. Cover with kitchen film, or seal the bag and let the chicken marinate for at least 45 minutes, and up to 4 hours.

Preheat oven to 375°F (200°C) and set the oven rack in the middle position.

Line a rimmed baking dish with parchment paper and spread the potatoes, squash, and pepper pieces pouring the rest of the marinade over, and tossing well to make sure all vegetables are coated. Add the quartered orange slices and toss again.

Bake uncovered for 30 minutes.

Remove the chicken from the bag, and arrange over the vegetables, skin-side up, pouring any marinade drippings over, arrange the orange slices over the breast and thighs and drizzle with olive oil.

Bake for about 45 min. then cover loosely with parchment paper and bake another 20 minutes or more, until done –the center of the thickest part of the thighs should register 155 to 160°F (68 to 71°C) on an instant-read thermometer.

If the chicken skin is not brown enough by the time the thighs are cooked through, set broiler to high and broil for 1 minute or until browned and crisp, but be very careful, because the skin can burn fast.  

Let rest for 5 minutes before serving, transfering chicken and vegetables to a platter, if you like, and garnished with orange slices and cilantro.

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I though of adding squash and bell pepper to the eggpants as I had no leeks to sweeten and add color to the stuffing. This semi-open colorful pie/tart is the perfect main course for a vegetarian Thanksgiving or for any festive fall and winter meal.   

In the original pie of Drama sauteed leeks and eggplants are flavored with plenty of agad graviera cheese, and scented with cumin. Walnuts add a meaty taste to this delicious pie that I have baked on many occasions, both at home and also at various meals I have cooked over the years in the US. I often bake a rolled eggplant pie, as it is easier to cut and serve, especially if one uses commercial frozen phyllo, and not the wonderful home-rolled. 

Serves 10-12

About 2/3 cup Olive oil as needed

1 round eggplants, cut into slices

1 large purple onion, thinly sliced

 Half a small squash, peeled, seeded and cut into small dice –about 4 cups

1 red pepper seeded and cut into strips   

 2 cups aged graviera, pecorino or cheddar, grated

1 ½ cup smoked cheddar, grated

1 1/2 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped

1 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

Aleppo pepper or freshly ground black pepper

About ½ -1 teaspoon salt, as the cheeses are quite salty

½  packet thick frozen commercial phyllo, or homemade phyllo pastry

Preheat the oven to 375 F (200 C) and brush generously the eggplant slices with olive oil, place them on a parchment-paper-lined baking dish and bake until golden and tender, about 20 minutes. Let cool and then chop them into about half-inch pieces.

In the meantime, in a large skillet sauté the onion in 2 tablespoons of olive oil, until soft. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. To the skillet add the pepper and sauté the pepper, remove when done, then add the squash and a little more olive oil and sauté on high heat, tossing often for 2-3 minutes, then reduce the heat, cover and continue cooking until soft, about 15-20 minutes. Cool in a colander to collect any excess oil.

In a large bowl mix the onions, eggplant, peppers, squash with the grated cheeses, the cumin and the walnuts. Add very little salt and plenty of pepper and toss well to mix.

Oil a pan or a cast iron skillet and lay 2 sheets of phyllo, brushing generously with olive oil and leaving the sheets hanging out of the pan. Add two more sheets of phyllo brushing with oil and then add the filling, spreading all over the pan and pressing to even it.

Fold the hanging phyllo, brushing with olive oil, to make a crown around the pan partly covering the filling.    

Bake in the middle of the oven, reducing the temperature to 350F (180 C) for about 40 minutes or more, until the phyllo turns golden brown and the filling sizzles.

Let cool a little before cutting to serve. The pie can be eaten warm or at room temperature. It can also be frozen and reheated.

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Cut into chunks a couple of small, longish, tender eggplants, some peeled butternut squash, one or two bell peppers, add a sliced onion and a couple of garlic cloves and douse them all with olive oil; sprinkle with some cumin, ground coriander seeds, oregano or thyme, plenty of Aleppo (or Maras) pepper flakes and of course salt, and bake in the center of the oven for about 45 minutes, tossing once after 30 minutes or so.  

For my 15×12 inch (37×32 cm) deep pan I used about 1 1/2 pounds squash and more or less the same weight of tender (no seeds) eggplants.

I find that squash and eggplant complement beautifully each other! But by all means, if you want to use any other seasonal vegetables, the same formula more or less works for zucchini, or with sliced fennel bulb instead of the squash etc. 

A medium onion, thickly sliced, and a couple of coarsely chopped garlic cloves are essential. Add 2 or 3 bell peppers, any color you like, and drizzle with plenty of olive oil –I would say that I used about 1/2 cup. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon cumin, plus about 2 tablespoons ground coriander seeds, and 2 teaspoons oregano or thyme. Add salt and pepper of course and toss very well –your hands or 2 large spatulas are needed here. 

Bake in a medium-high oven (about 400F, 200 C) for about 45 minutes.

Just before serving, sprinkle with plenty of fresh or dried thyme or oregano. Adding it at the end enhances the aromas and flavors tremendously. 

Don’t forget to line your pan with parchment paper so that cleaning it afterwards is dead easy!

These roasted vegetables are great hot, warm or room temperature. If you refrigerate the leftovers, heat in a low oven or in the microwave. 

You can also use them as the base to make an omelette, especially my favorite Frittata-stratta. 

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In Crete chickpeas are commonly flavored with bitter (Seville) orange, while in most other islands lemon is used. I think orange peel is a wonderful substitute for the bitter orange, along with some lemon juice. This simple chickpea dish, like the one without squash, should be made with the best quality, preferably organic dried chickpeas, not the canned ones. Their flavor is so much more interesting. 

I add mustard, something I learned from my mother who claimed that it made all pulses more digestible. I’m not sure it does, but it certainly deepens the flavor of the beans and chickpeas.

I start describing the long, old fashioned oven-cooked method, and then I add my way of making the dish fast, with pre-cooked, frozen chickpeas without losing its original flavor and texture –by the way I, as most Greeks, like the chickpeas meltingly tender, somewhat mushy, not chewy.

I developed this recipe for EATING WELL magazine; part of a piece about the healthy Cooking of Crete (March 2020).

Serves 6-8

         2 cups dried chickpeas, preferably organic (see NOTE 2)

        1 teaspoon baking soda (optional)            

       1 ½ teaspoons Salt, or to taste       

       1/3  cup olive oil          

       2 1/2  cups coarsely chopped onions        

       2-5  teaspoons Aleppo or Maras pepper, or Hot Red           Pepper Flakes to taste

      1  1/2 cups vegetable or Chicken Stock or more, as needed

         2 pieces fresh or dried orange peel (about 4-5 inches)

          1 cup coarsely chopped celery, preferably Mediterranean             leaf-celery

            About 2 pound butternut squash—peeled, seeded and               diced into 1-inch pieces

       2  tablespoons Dijon mustard

      3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or more to taste

       Extra virgin olive oil, preferably Greek, for drizzling

       Freshly ground black pepper

Soak the chickpeas overnight in plenty of water. Drain and rinse well under running water.

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200 C).

The traditional METHOD:

 In a medium bowl, combine the chickpeas salt and 1/4 teaspoon baking soda if you like, and toss well.

In a medium flameproof casserole or Dutch oven, heat the oil and sauté the onions over medium heat for 4 minutes, or until they start to soften. Stir in the chickpeas, salt, and Aleppo pepper or pepper flakes, then add the stock or water, the orange peel and celery. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat, and cover the dish with a double layer of aluminum foil and then the lid.

Reduce the oven temperature to 250°F place the casserole in the oven and cook for about 5 hours, or until the chickpeas are quite tender. Mix the mustard with the chickpeas together with the squash pieces, toss and continue baking for another 30minutes, or until the squash is tender. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding salt, more lemon juice, and black pepper to taste.

Drizzle with olive oil and serve hot, warm or at room temperature.

With Pre-cooked Chickpeas

In a sauté pan or casserole heat the oil and sauté the onions over medium heat for 4 minutes, or until they start to soften. Stir in 6 cups pre-cooked chickpeas (see NOTE below), salt, and Aleppo pepper or pepper flakes, toss a few times, then add the stock or water, the orange peel and celery. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to its minimum and simmer for 15 minutes.

Mix the mustard with the chickpeas together with the squash pieces, toss, and continue simmering for another 12-15 minutes, or until the squash is tender and the chickpeas start to get mushy.

Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding salt, more lemon juice, and black pepper to taste.

Drizzle with olive oil and serve hot, warm or at room temperature.

NOTE:    Pre-cooking Chickpeas

For 6-8 people:

2 cups (1 pound) dried Chickpeas yields about 6 cups cooked

1 or 2 pounds dried Chickpeas, preferably organic

2-4 Salt

1 teaspoon baking soda (optional)

Place 1 or 2 pounds Chickpeas in a large bowl, covering them with water by about 4 inches.  Let soak overnight, for 8-12 hours.

The next morning rinse the chickpeas under cold water, place in a large pot and add water to cover by about 4 inches. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, adding salt (2 teaspoons for 1 pound chickpeas, and 4 for 2 pounds) bring to a slow boil and simmer 15-20 minutes, or until the beans start to soften. Taste after 10 minutes – if they are still very hard, add the baking soda and cook 15 minutes more. Taste: the chickpeas should be almost soft, but not entirely cooked. Turn off the heat and let them cool in their broth.

Drain, let cool, then transfer to a Ziploc bag and freeze flat. They will keep for up to 6 months.

To cook, take out the bag, beat on the counter to loosen the beans, and use as much as you need. Close the bag and return to the freezer.

NOTE 2. Buy best quality Large, small or medium chickpeas

Try to get the best quality, freshest organic dried chickpeas. I prefer medium, but no matter the size, what is important is that they have not been sitting in the shelve for more than a few months. I have had chickpeas that cooked in just 15 minutes, and others, even with the addition of baking soda that helps them soften, needed more than an hour’s cooking to become edible, and never reached the meltingly tender texture that I love.

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Paula Wolfert, in her wonderful book  The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen, explains her most ingenious, simple way of making it perfect! All you need is time to bake the squash slowly. Use your phone timer if you have not an automatic oven that you can set it bake the squash for 1 ½ to 2 hours.

In my recipe below I have reduced the amount of sugar, as I find that butternut squash is by itself very sweet!

We like to serve it with mastic or vanilla ice cream sometimes adding the walnuts that Paula suggests sautéing in butter, something I don’t usually do.

In Turkey this baked squash is usually served with kaimak (clotted buffalo cream).

See also the elaborate Greek Squash or Pumpkin Preserves (rossoli).

 Serves 4

1 pound (500 gram) peeled butternut squash, cut into about 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces

2/3 cup superfine or baker’s sugar

Optional accompaniments:

About ½ cup toasted walnuts

1 cup crème fraîche, or thick yogurt, or ice cream

Mix the squash pieces with the sugar in a shallow glass or ceramic baking dish and let stand for at least 30 minutes, or until the squash weeps and the sugar melts.

Preheat the oven to 300°F (150 C). Use your fingers or a wooden spoon to mix the squash and sugar. Cover with a crumpled sheet of wet parchment paper, place in the oven, and bake for 1½ hours, or more, until the juices boil and the squash is tender.

Turn off the oven and leave the dish inside until completely cool. (The squash will continue to re-absorb their syrupy juices.)

Store in a cool place or in the refrigerator. Let return to room temperature before serving. If you like, sprinkle with walnut and/or accompany with crème fraiche, thick yogurt, or ice cream.

The post Baked Sweet Squash appeared first on Aglaia's Table οn Kea Cyclades.

Serves 6-8

3 pounds (1 ½ kilo) russet potatoes peeled and thinly sliced

One butternut squash, about 2 pounds (1 kilo) peeled and thinly sliced

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons dried mint, or about ½ cup packed fresh mint leaves

2 pounds (1 kilo) feta cheese, crumbled

½ cup fruity olive oil

Preheat the oven to 375 F (200 C).

In a large bowl add the potato slices, squash, salt, pepper and flour and toss well.

Line a 9 X 13-inch (23 X 33 cm) baking dish with parchment paper and spread the vegetables in an even layer, pressing them so that no gaps remain, then sprinkle with the mint, pour over the olive oil and sprinkle with the cheese. You can also make boureki in 6 or 8 individual baking dishes.

Bake in the middle of the oven for about 45 minutes until the top browns and the vegetables are soft as you poke with a knife.

Serve immediately or let cool to room temperature before cutting to serve.

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Just toasted pine nuts with chopped cilantro are also a fine, simpler topping for this comforting winter soup.

Serves 6-8 

About ½ cup olive oil

2 cups finely chopped onion, or thinly sliced leek

3 cloves garlic, minced

3 ½ – 4 cups peeled and coarsely grated butternut squash –about 4 pounds (2 kilos) unpeeled squash

2-3 cups chicken or vegetable broth, as needed

Salt and red pepper flakes, preferably Aleppo or Maras pepper, to taste

½ cup brandy (or sweet wine)

1 cup full-fat Greek yogurt, or more to taste

TOPPING

1 cup green peas fried in olive oil together with ½ cup drained capers

½ cup toasted pine nuts

Extra Virgin Olive oil for drizzling (optional)

Heat the oil in a heavy four-liter saucepan. Add the onions or leek and sauté, stirring for 3 minutes.  Reduce heat to low, and sauté slowly until they are translucent –don’t let them brown. Stir in the garlic. Add the grated squash and sauté, stirring for 8-10 minutes until soft, then add 2 cups of the broth, cover and simmer until the squash is very tender, about 15 minutes. Puree the mixture with a stick-blender.

Up to this point the soup can be prepared in advance, even refrigerated or frozen.

Return the puree to the saucepan adding the rest of the broth -and more, if needed– stir and reheat slowly, then add the brandy or wine. Season with salt and pepper flakes, add the yogurt and stir well to mix; taste and adjust the seasoning.

Serve topping each portion with sautéed peas and pine nuts, drizzling with some fruity olive oil, if you like.

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Yields 2 small, or one large round loaf

1 cup fine semolina or pasta flour

3 1/2 cups all purpose flour

3  cups whole wheat flour

3  teaspoons instant dry yeast

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper (optional)

3 ½ cups fresh pumpkin and tangerine pulp (see NOTE 2)

1 cup Seville orange or any kind of citrus marmalade

About 1/4 cup spring water (non chlorinated), as needed

Olive oil for the bowl

Blanched almonds to decorate (optional)

Place flours, yeast, salt and pepper in the bowl of a standing mixer and toss with a spatula. Make a well in the center and add the pumpkin-tangerine pulp and marmalade. Fit the bowl to the mixer and work with the dough hook on low for 1 minute. With the motor running add water if needed and work the dough for 5 minutes or more, occasionally stopping to turn over the dough with a large spatula. The dough should still be somewhat wet and sticky, but should start to come off the sides of the bowl. If too dry, add a little water, if too wet add a few tablespoons all purpose flour.

Lightly oil a large transparent or semi-transparent bowl, as well as a piece of plastic wrap. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and shape into a ball.  Transfer to the oiled bowl. Cover with the oiled plastic wrap and let rise until double its original volume: about 1 1/2 hour or more.

(When the dough has expanded to about 1 1/2 times its size you may transfer the bowl with the dough to the refrigerator, and leave it overnight and up to 24 hours. It will continue to rise slowly. Before proceeding further, bring to room temperature).

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and if you like, halve with a spatula.

Form one or two loaves and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover with oiled plastic wraps and let the loaves rise for another 30 minutes –they won’t rise much.

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Brush the breads with water or milk and decorate with almonds, if you like.

Bake for 5 minutes, sprinkling the inside of the oven with water twice, then reduce the heat to 375F and continue baking the breads for 40 minutes or more, until golden brown an hollow-sounding when tapped at the bottom. A meat thermometer inserted in the center should reach 205 F. When done, transfer to a rack to cool completely before you  slice to serve.

NOTE1:

• To make the the pumpkin-tangerine pulp, work in the blender 3 cups grated fresh pumpkin together with 3 tangerines (peel and flesh). Halve the tangerines to remove the pips, if there are any.
• If you opt for canned pumpkin, work one cup in the blender with the tangerines just to facilitate the process, and then mix with more canned pumpkin to get the amount needed.

NOTE 2:

To stuff the bread with fresh cheese, follow the shaping instruction for Cheese or Chocolate Stuffed Bread.

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Adapted from Mediterranean Vegetarian Feasts.

GLUTEN FREE

See also the summer ‘naked pie’ we make with zucchini, of which we often have an overwhelming abundance in June, fresh from our garden.

Serves 5 to 6 as a Main Course (or makes 8 to 10 appetizer portions)

1/2 cup (80 ml) olive oil, plus more for drizzling

2 pounds (1 kilo) squash, coarsely grated

salt

1 onion ( about 1/2 pound, 225 g) finely chopped or grated

3/4 pound (340 g) feta cheese, crumbled

1 1/4 cups quick cooking rolled oats

1 teaspoon Maras or Aleppo pepper flakes, or freshly ground pepper, to taste

3 tablespoons fresh dill

1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, chopped

3 eggs

1 cup (140 g) hulled sunflower seeds or pepitas

3-4 tablespoons grated pecorino or kefalotyri

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).

Lay a piece of parchment paper on a baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil.

Toss the squash with 1 teaspoon salt and let wilt in a colander for about 10 minutes.

Press handfuls of the squash over the sink to extract any juices and transfer to a large bowl. Add the onion, oats, feta, pepper, dill, and mint. Combine and add the eggs, one at a time, mixing well with your hands or with a large spatula. Add 1/3 cup olive oil and stir well.

Sprinkle the oiled baking sheet with a few sunflower seeds, and carefully pour over the zucchini mixture. Spread and level the surface with a spatula, drizzle with olive oil, and sprinkle with the rest of the sunflower seeds and the grated cheese.

Cover loosely with aluminum foil and bake for 30 minutes.

Remove the foil and bake another 10 to 15 minutes, until the mixture is set and deep golden on top.

Let cool on a rack at least 20 minutes. Cut into pieces and serve warm or at room temperature.

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