I caramelized some sugar, then laid the peach or apple segments on it and cooked for a few minutes, before covering with two layers of pastry and baking. 

I bought quite a few nectarines the other day, as we at end of October, far beyond peach season. Although they looked unripe, when cut, their flesh was overripe, almost rotten around the stone –probably because they were refrigerated for far too long.

Since they were not good to enjoy as part of my morning fruit-plate, I thought of using them to make an upside-down tart, using frozen, store-bought puff pastry as the crust.

I have had quite a lot of misses in the past trying to bake upside-down fruit tarts, but this time I used my new, very light, aluminum, non-stick Neoflam skillet which made it so easy to bake and invert the tart perfectly, for the very first time…

Serves 8-12

5 Nectarines, halved and pitted; each half cut into 3-4 segments, OR 3-4 apples (any kind), peeled and halved, then each piece cut into 3-4 segments (see NOTE)

2/3 cups sugar, divided

2 -3 rosemary sprigs 

1 cup golden raisins

2 pieces frozen puff pastry (500 grams, about 1 pound) thawed according to package instructions 

Vanilla, Mastic-scented ice cream, or whipped cream, to serve (optional)

Spread 1/2 cup sugar in a 10-inch (26 cm) non-stick  light pan and heat in medium high, spreading the sugar with 2 teaspoons water and tossing, every now and then with a wooden spatula for 15 minutes or more,  until the sugar caramelizes, turning a dark amber color.  

Preheat the oven to 400 F (220 C).

Remove the skillet from the heat, and wearing gloves, carefully arrange the nectarine or apple pieces over the caramelized sugar syrup. Sprinkle with rosemary leaves, scatter the raisins over the nectarines and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons sugar, then cook in medium-high heat for 10 minutes. Cover the fruit with a piece of parchment paper and the lid, and cook another 10 minutes, until the nectarines or apples are quite soft. Remove from the heat.

Unroll the puff pastry and cover the fruit with one piece, pushing it with a spatula to go deep all around the fruit pieces. Sprinkle with the rest of the sugar and lay the second piece of pastry over. Use the pieces you cut off to make sure there is quite a bit of pastry around the sides of the skillet, and the fruit is well covered. Any leftover pastry can be added on top of the 2 layers. 

Place the skillet in a larger pan or baking sheet lined with parchment paper, to prevent any syrup spilling into your oven as the tart bakes. Spray the pastry with water, using a plant spritzer, and prick in several places with a sharp knife. Bake for about 30 minutes, in the middle of the oven, or until the pastry looks dark brown and well done.

Remove from the oven. Wearing gloves, and using thick oven-mittens invert the tart on a platter. If a couple of fruit have stuck in the pan, carefully remove them and place in the gaps on the tart.  

Let cool for 15-20 minutes, then cut to serve, accompanying with ice cream or whipped cream, if you like. 

NOTE: You can also use canned peaches. Drain and cut into segments. Canned peaches don’t need additional cooking, just warm-through in the caramelized sugar before covering with the puff pastry. 

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Either way, use up any overripe summer or fall fruit you have at hand: cherries, peaches, plums, strawberries, or apricots. Complement them with some homemade or store-bough jam or marmalade and you can totally omit any added sugar, as I usually do.

Serve on its own, or maybe together with the Fruity, Guilt-free Ice Cream.

Makes a round or square 9-inch (23 cm) tart

1 cup cherry, apricot, plum, fig or any other jam

3 cups fresh summer fruit: pitted cherries, chopped apricots, peaches, or plums

A few tablespoons sugar (optional)

2-3 tablespoons cornstarch, as needed

Olive Oil, Whole-wheat Yeasted Pastry

OR  1 package puff pastry

1 small egg yolk mixed with 2 tablespoons milk

½-2/3 cup coarsely ground almonds

In a small saucepan warm the jam together with the chopped fruit, and cook stirring until the fruit soften. Remove from the heat and add 2 or 3 tablespoons cornstarch, depending on how juicy the mixture is. Let cool, as you lay the crust.

Preheat the oven to 350F (180 C).

Line the pan with parchment paper and place half the pastry pressing to cover the base and the sides of the pan.

Spread the fruit on the crust and cover with the second piece of pastry, or if you are using puff pastry, cut the in ribbons and arrange over the filling.

Brush the pastry with the egg-milk mixture and sprinkle with the ground almonds.

Bake for 40 minutes or more, until the pastry is golden and the fruit mixture is no longer runny.

Let cool for at least 30 minutes, before cutting to serve.

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This wonderful cake has become our go-to early winter treat and I was making it all the time.  To the apples I often added a cup of last year’s quince preserves, before making the new batch. Now that we have plenty of quince from our trees, I adapted Darra’s basic recipe for these fragrant fruit.

It takes a bit more time, since the quince need to be poached or slow-baked to soften, but the result is worth the extra effort, as you can attest if you try it…

For a 9-inch round cake –or equivalent square, or 1 large or 2 small loaves 

3 medium or 2 large quince, washed, halved through the equator, then quartered to cut-off the pips (do not peel)

1 cup sweet wine, such as Mavrodaphne or Madeira

Olive oil for rubbing the pan

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

4 eggs

1 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon sea salt (or kosher salt)

1 tablespoon vanilla essence

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cup raisins

1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

Place the rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350F degrees (180 C).

Arrange the quince pieces in a pan, preferably a clay or glass one, that holds them snugly in one layer. Pour the wine over the quince pieces and add some water, as much as needed to come up to 2/3 of the quince pieces. Cover with parchment paper and then with aluminum foil and bake for about 45 minutes, or until the quince are easily pierced with a knife or fork. Transfer the quince to a colander placed over a bowl to collect the juices which you can add to flavor tea or any tisane. Transfer the quince pieces to a large bowl or platter and let cool while you prepare the batter. Do not turn off the oven.

Line with parchment paper the pan (or pans) that you will use, and lightly rub with olive oil, then sprinkle with cinnamon.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, or in a large bowl if using a handheld mixer, beat the eggs, sugar and salt on medium-high speed until thick and pale yellow, about 5 minutes. Beat in the vanilla extract.

Gradually add the flour into the egg mixture, and gently fold with a spatula until just combined and no flour streaks remain. The batter will be quite thick.

Chop the now cooled quince in somewhat thin slices and mix with the raisins.

Spread the walnuts, then half the quince in an even, compact layer at the bottom of the pan. Cover with half the batter and use an offset spatula to spread the batter evenly over the quince. Repeat with the remaining quince and batter. Gently tap the pan a few times against the counter to get rid of air bubbles, and transfer to the oven.

Bake for about 50 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out almost clean and the top of sharlotka is golden brown.

Let the cake cool in the pan for about 10-15 minutes, then gently run a knife around the perimeter to loosen and carefully invert the pan on a platter and let cool completely before cutting to serve.

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Serves 6

THE QUINCE

4           quinces, about 2 pounds

1          lemon, quartered

About 2/3 cup olive oil

1 ½    cups sweet red wine (Mavrodaphne or Marsala)

THE CHICKEN

6  whole chicken legs, separated, or a whole cut-up chicken –preferably free range

Salt and coarsely ground black pepper

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground allspice

1            medium onion, coarsely chopped

About 2 cups Chicken Stock or more, as needed

A few sprigs of rosemary to decorate (optional)

2-3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional)

2-3      tablespoons brown sugar (optional)

Prepare the Quince: Fill a medium bowl with water and squeeze the juice from the lemon. Quarter and core each quince, then halve each quarter lengthwise. Drop the quince pieces into the bowl of lemon water as you work.

Tie the quince cores in a cheesecloth.

In a large, deep skillet, heat about 6 tablespoons oil. Pat the quince pieces dry with paper towels and sauté, in batches, stirring for about 5 minutes, or until they start to color. Add the sweet wine and enough water to half-cover the pieces abd simmer for another 10 minutes, until the quince start to soften.

Transfer to a large bowl along with their juices and set aside.

Prepare the chicken: Season the meat on both sides generously with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with allspice and cumin and rub well all over the chicken pieces.

In the deep skillet heat the rest of the olive oil over medium-high heat and sauté the chicken pieces on both sides until nicely browned. With a slotted spoon remove the chicken pieces to a platter and keep warm.

Add the onion to the skillet and briefly fry, then pour over most of the quince broth and scrape up any caramelized bits at the bottom of the pan.

Add the quince to the skillet, along with the cheesecloth and any remaining juices. Arrange the chicken pieces in between the quince, add the cinnamon stick, and the bay leaves, then pour enough chicken broth to almost cover meat and quince, and bring to a boil. Half-cover the skillet, turn the heat to medium and cook for 35 to 40 minutes, until the chicken and quince are very tender, adding more broth or water, as needed. Squeeze and discard the cheesecloth and transfer the chicken and quince in a clay pot or platter. If there is too much sauce cook on high heat to reduce, then pour over the chicken and quince, and serve decorating with rosemary sprigs or chopped parsley.

If you like, caramelize the quince: preheat the broiler, then transfer just the quince pieces to a baking tray, sprinkle with 2 to 3 teaspoons brown sugar and broil until caramelized, about 2 minutes. Return to the platter with the chicken and pour some sauce over the caramelized fruit before serving.

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It was the day we devote to bread and the different, sweet and savory variation one can create with just one basic dough; I had just happened to see Cali Doxiadis’ recipe and decided to try it with some of our leftover dough, after we made loaves, the cheese-stuffed buns, and the tomato or pepper-topped lagana (flat breads) we usually make.

Cali recently shared the FaceBook photos had posted ‘6-years ago’ during my very first try on the Harvest Tart.

In her recipe Cali writes: “…the original inspiration for this sweet and somewhat savoury tart is an Italian recipe for Schiacciata con Grappoli d’Uva, but several adaptations later, it is nearly unrecognisable. It has become a sort of crisp but chewy round flatbread, or sweet peppery pizza…”  In that first harvest tart my bread crust –I did not use Cali’s recipe– was OK, but not ideal, as the fruits were not well-incorporated on top, while the bottom was somewhat soggy. But it accompanied ideally the aged cheeses we served it with, especially the particularly spicy Sifnos Manoura, which ages in wine sediment.

When I made the tart again I chose to use instead of bread or pizza dough, the olive-oil-and-orange pastry that is so wonderful in my vegan olive pies. I had gotten the recipe many years from Zoe Evangelou, a lady I met at my friend Roxani Matsa’s winery, in Kantza; later I encountered very similar crust and olive pies in Cyprus. It is an easy and delicious crust that can easily accommodate both savory and/or sweet filling or topping.

Cali had recently shared the FaceBook photos I had posted ‘6-years ago’ during my very first try on the Harvest Tart, reminding me to try once again this simple Mediterranean treat which I had almost forgotten….

TO MAKE THE TART:

Follow the ingredients and instructions for crust of the Vegan Olive Pie, halving the recipe (2 instead of the 4 cups of flour) for a 25-30 cm. pie. Line the pan with parchment paper and stretch the dough to cover the pan, then sprinkle with sugar, preferably light brown, and follow Cali’s recipe for the grape and fig topping,  preferably choosing various kinds of grapes and more figs, if you happen to have plenty, as I do these days.

Sprinkle with some sugar on top of the fruit and bake in a 200 C oven for 30 minutes or more, until the crust is done and starts to color and the fruits wilted and bubbly.

As it is obvious the baked Harvest Tart is not as spectacular as the raw one, but it will be delicious! Trust me, and also my old friend Cali Doxiadis who lives in Corfu –on the northwestern part of Greece–  enjoying her spectacular garden, and of course cooking!

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On Chios, they pair quinces with free-range chicken; on Crete, with lamb; and on Lesbos, with veal. As with most stews I make on Kea, our local veal shank is my first choice; but I also make pork with quince. I give the meat extra flavor by tying the cores of the fruit in cheesecloth and adding them to the cooking broth.

The combination of meat with quinces is not new. In the Roman cookery of Apicius we find similar stews, and quinces have been quite common in old traditional Greek cooking.

Here, the firm, fragrant fruit, with its appealing tart flavor, is balanced with the sweet wine and the plums, or pearl onions.  This stew can be prepared almost entirely in advance and refrigerated. Then you need only simmer the meat in the sauce for a few minutes and caramelize the quinces just before serving. Accompany with potatoes, especially with David Tanis’ Olive oil and Garlic Mashed Potatoes, or with polenta.

Leftover sauce makes an unusual but excellent pasta sauce, or it can be a great topping for fava, instead of the caramelized onions.

Adapted from The Foods of the Greek Islands

Makes 4 servings

2            pounds beef or veal chuck, boneless veal or beef breast, shank, or top round                    roast

1            large onion, quartered

2/3        cup olive oil

3–4       teaspoons sugar

Juice of  1  lemon

4           quinces

1/2         cup sweet red wine, such as Mavrodaphne or sweet Marsala

1/2         cup dry red wine

9           pitted prunes,  or 2 cups pearl onions (see variation)

1            teaspoon Aleppo pepper or pinch of crushed red pepper flakes

1            cinnamon stick

3           bay leaves

1         teaspoon coarsely crushed allspice berries

About 1 1/2 cups beef stock or Chicken Stock

Salt

1–2        tablespoons red wine vinegar (optional)

Freshly ground black pepper

2            tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

In a large pot, combine the veal, onion, 1/4 cup of the oil, 1 teaspoon of the sugar and enough water to come two-thirds up the sides of the roast. Bring to a boil and skim off the foam that rises to the top.

Cover and simmer for 45 minutes, turning the meat once. Remove from the heat and let cool, then refrigerate overnight.

Fill a medium bowl with water and add the lemon juice. Quarter and core each quince, then halve each quarter lengthwise. Drop the quince pieces into the bowl of lemon water as you work.

If you like, tie the quince cores in a cheesecloth and add to the pot where you stew the meat.

In a large skillet, heat the remaining 6 tablespoons oil. Pat the quince pieces dry with paper towels and sauté, in batches, stirring, for 4 minutes, or until they start to color. Transfer to a medium bowl and set aside.

Discard any remaining oil and add the sweet wine to the skillet, scraping up any caramelized bits in the bottom of the pan. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Remove the veal from the pot and cut it into four 1/2-inch-thick slices. Bring the cooking liquid to a boil, then cook over high heat until it has evaporated and only fat remains in the pot, 10 to 15 minutes. Return the veal slices to the pot and sauté, turning, for 5 minutes, or until browned. Add 8 of the less attractive quince pieces, the cheesecloth with the cores, if you use it, the sweet wine from the skillet, the dry wine, 5 of the prunes, the Aleppo pepper or pepper flakes, cinnamon stick, bay leaf, allspice, stock and salt to taste.

Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for 45 minutes, or until the meat is very tender.

Transfer the veal to a plate and set aside. Discard the cheesecloth with the peelings after pressing to extract all its juices, also discard the cinnamon stick and bay leaf. Transfer the cooked quinces, the prunes and the sauce to a blender and puree. Return to the pot and add the remaining 4 prunes and the remaining quince pieces to the sauce and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the quinces are soft but not mushy.

Carefully transfer the quinces to a small baking pan in a single layer, cover and keep warm.

Taste the sauce, and if you like, add the vinegar, and black pepper to taste. Return the meat to the sauce and simmer for 10 minutes more, or until heated through. Serve the meat and quince in a clay pot or platter.

OR if you like, caramelize the quince: preheat the broiler, then sprinkle the quinces with the remaining 2 to 3 teaspoons sugar and broil until caramelized, about 2 minutes. Place a slice of veal, a prune and some caramelized quinces on each plate. Pour a little sauce over the meat, sprinkle with the parsley and serve, passing the remaining sauce at the table.

VARIATION: You can use 2 cups pearl onions (fresh or frozen) instead of the prunes. Add them all at once with the wine as they need longer cooking. Do not puree the sauce in the blender.

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