They are supposed to bring luck and help start the year with sweetness and strength, something we particularly need these difficult times…

English pudding is one of such festive cakes, but it is somewhat too complicated, with lots of strange ingredients, while the Boozy Fruitcake I propose is quite simple, provided you have help chopping dried fruit, and do not spare the cost of real, aged Cognac, Armagnac, or Grand Marnier needed to douse the cake. 

There is also our morning treat: the somewhat heavy yeasted Seedy, Fruity and Nutty Bread, close to a fruit-nut cake, with complex, bold flavor I always have sliced in the freezer. We toast pieces to enjoy with our coffee.

A variation of this bread can become a vassilopita —the New Year’s cake where the lucky coin is hidden.

I used to make our family’s traditional rich, elaborate cake but recently I prefer the simpler Orange or Tangerine Olive Oil Cake, the one I soak in syrup and I often complement with jam or marmalade as well as with seasonal fruit to create a more elaborate dessert. It is a lighter version of my mother’s vassilopita, which she always baked for the New Year celebrations.

Our neighbor Ela’s New Year cake, is another idea: she bakes it halving her mother’s original recipe that calls for 16 egg whites…

This is a delicious, quite easy treat, especially if you have a surplus of eggs, as Ela does. Fortunately she shares with us some of the delicious eggs her hens lay this time of year!

Use the egg yolks to make Pots de Crème!  

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This is a dense fruitcake, full of flavor, that should be thinly sliced and enjoyed in moderation, maybe accompanied by cream, mascarpone, or thick yogurt. 

Makes 2 Fruitcakes

Butter or olive oil for pans

2 pounds mixed fried fruit (pitted Medjool dates, prunes –preferably from Agen, candied pineapple, candied cherries and or cranberries, dried apricots etc)

2 tablespoons freshly grated orange zest

4 eggs

1 cup granulated sugar

1 ½ cups mashed, baked butternut squash

2 cups sifted all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons double acting baking powder

½-1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 ½ pounds mixed nuts (shelled pistachios, shelled almonds, shelled walnuts and/or pecans)

Maple syrup or warm honey to brush the cake

1/2 cup Armagnac, Grand Marnier or Brandy

Line two 9-inch pans with parchment paper, or one 9-inch square and one long cake pan and brush with butter or oil. Heat the oven to 275 F (140 C).

Combine the dried fruit in a bowl with cherries and orange jest. Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt. Sift this over fruit. With your hands, toss to coat.

In medium bowl, preferably on a standing mixer, beat eggs with sugar until frothy. Add the squash and the vanilla extract and mix. Pour over the fruit.

With wooden spoon, mix very well. Fold in the pistachios, almonds, pecans and walnuts, and mix until coated with batter.

Divide the mixture between the pans. Using your hands, press to pack the batter very firmly and fill in open spaces.

Bake for about 1 1/2 hours, until the tops of cakes look dry but not brown. When the cakes are done, transfer to cooling racks. Let stand for 5 minutes, then release springform and peel off parchment paper on sides.

While cakes are still hot, brush lightly with syrup or honey. Let cool 30 minutes, then prick with a toothpick all over and spoon the Liqueur or Armagnac on top.

When completely cool, remove the cakes from pan base and peel off parchment paper on bottom.

It is advised not to eat right away but wrap the fruitcakes in plastic wrap and try them the next day.

They will keep for two months in refrigerator, their flavors getting even better.

Sprinkle with more Armagnac or liqueur before serving.

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This much lighter festive bread is in fact an interesting variety of the traditional raisin bread (stafidopsomo).  It comes from Mykonos, the now cosmopolitan Cycladic island, and was given to me by Anna Sigala, my old neighborhood baker from the days I used to live under the Akropolis.

Anna had told me that she learned to make it from her grandmother. Now that Koukaki –the area around Acropolis– has become extremely popular with both locals and foreign visitors, Takis, Anna’s son, transformed the old bakeshop into a much-written about  bakery where tourists line up to get sandwiches, pies, and sweets.

My mother and father hated raisin bread because, for a period during the 1930s, the Greek government made it compulsory for everyone buying any kind of bread to buy some raisin bread, too.  The Ministry of Agriculture had bought all the raisins from Corinth to keep the growers satisfied, for political reasons, and then invented this method to get rid of the surplus.

Later, when this stupid regulation was no longer applied, raisin breads disappeared from the bakeries because no one would buy them.  Only recently, more than three generations later, raisin bread has again become popular.

Athenian bakeries often slice tsoureki and other flavored breads and bake them again, to make delicious, light biscotti; you can do the same with this one, if you have any leftover.

I love it with spicy cheese, like Rockford and Gorgonzola, or simply with coffee or tea; I also use as a base for English trifle or summer pudding, much like my older version of pumpkin and tangerine bread.

Makes 3 small loaves

1 cup yellow cornmeal

6 ½ cups bread flour or all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon instant dry yeast (see note 1)

1 teaspoon ground mahlep (see note 2)

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

2 teaspoons finishing, somewhat coarse sea salt

1 teaspoon mastic tears (see note 2)

About 2 ½ cups orange juice, as needed

2 very small or one large tangerine, ends sliced off, then quartered to remove any pips

1 cup baked, mashed squash (preferably butternut squash)

¼ cup marmalade, preferably homemade

1-2 tablespoons honey (optional)

1 ½ cups raisins (about 200 grams)

½ cup sesame seeds and/or Nigella seeds

Olive oil for the bowl and the plastic wrap

1-2 tablespoons grape molasses to brush the loaves (optional)

Place flours, and the yeast in the bowl of a standing mixer and toss with a spatula. In a mortar beat the salt with the mastic tears to make a powder and add, together with the mahlep, cinnamon and cloves in the bowl with the flours and toss again to mix.

In the blender add 1 cups orange juice, the quartered tangerine(s) –peel and all—the baked squash, the marmalade, and the honey, if using, and pulse to chop and mix.

Make a well in the center of the flours and add the orange mixture from the blender, and one more cup orange juice. Fit the bowl to the mixer and work with the dough hook on low for 1 minute.

With the motor running add the rest of the orange juice and a little water, as needed, and work to make a dough somewhat wet and sticky that would start to come off the sides of the bowl. Add the raisins and keep working the dough on medium-low for about 5-6 minutes. If it feels too dry, add a little water, if too wet add a few tablespoons all-purpose flour. Occasionally stop and turn over the dough with a large spatula.

Lightly oil a large transparent or semi-transparent bowl, as well as a piece of plastic wrap. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and shape into a ball.  Transfer to the oiled bowl. Cover with the oiled plastic wrap and let rise until it almost doubles, about 2 hours or more.

(When the dough has expanded to about 1 1/2 times its size you may transfer the bowl with the dough to the refrigerator, and leave it overnight and up to 24 hours. It will continue to rise slowly. Before proceeding further, bring to room temperature).

Spread the sesame seeds and/or Nigella seeds on a platter and sprinkle liberally with water.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and divide into 3 with a dough scraper. Form 3 loaved with each piece of dough and roll them on the platter with the seeds, then transfer into cake pans lined with parchment paper. Cover loosely with oiled plastic and let rise for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until visibly expanded –they don’t need to double in size.

Preheat the oven to 375º F (200 C)

With scissors cut slits half-way into the bread and brush with the molasses if you like. Bake for 30 minutes then lower the temperature to 350 F (180 C) and continue baking for another 10-15 minutes, until golden and hollow sounding. An instant-read thermometer should read 200 F in the center of the bread.

Transfer to a rack and let cool completely before slicing.

NOTES

1. Both Costas and I love our breads somewhat dense; but if you like it lighter you can increase the Instant Dry Yeast adding 1 more teaspoon.
2. Instead of the traditional Greek mastic and mahlep, you could use cardamom –about 1 ½-2 teaspoons, I suggest.

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“Fluffy, eggy, buttery, sweet, coiled like a snail’s shell, and generously dusted with powdered sugar, the pan de Mallorca is named for its land of origin, in Spain. They are delicious on their own, or split and turned into sweet-and-savory ham, egg, and cheese sandwiches,” the magazine’s introduction explained.

The dough is very similar to challah and the traditional Greek tsoureki,  –the sweet brioche-like festive breads we bake for Christmas and Easter. In my version I substituted light olive oil for the butter, and used whole eggs, instead of just egg yolks, then I decided to brush the dough rectangle with my Seville orange marmalade before rolling and cutting the buns. I also placed them one roll next to the other, like cinnamon rolls, and I wish I had managed to make all the buns roughly the same size…

(Photo from Saveur magazine) 

Makes 6 large buns           

1 package instant active dry yeast

½ cup whole milk, slightly warm

1/3 cup light olive oil (or unsalted butter, melted)

3 medium eggs

3½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

Fine zest of 1 large orange

¼ cup granulated sugar

1 tsp. kosher salt

1 cup citrus marmalade

3 tablespoons ground almonds

OR

2 tablespoons butter, melted

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

In the bowl of a standing mixer add the yeast and the milk, and whisk for 3-4 minutes, adding the olive oil and the eggs, until you get a smooth mixture.

In a separate bowl add the flour, orange zest, salt, and sugar, and toss to mix.

Change the whisk, fitting the mixer with the dough hook and with the motor running at low speed gradually add the flour to the wet ingredients, and work the mixture for about 5-6 minutes, until you get a wet, sticky dough.

Oil a medium bowl and transfer the dough in it; cover with oiled film and let rise for about 1 ½ hours, until doubled.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface, and using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the dough out to a rectangle about 16-by-8-inches (40 X 20 cm.).

Brush the surface of the dough evenly with the marmalade and sprinkle with the ground almonds.  Starting at one of the short ends, roll the rectangle up into a tight cylinder. Slice the cylinder crosswise into 6 equal pieces, then transfer to the prepared baking sheet, placing one roll next to the other.

Alternatively, you can brush the dough rectangle with the butter and roll, then cut into 6 pieces, and place on the baking sheet spacing them at least 3 inches apart.

Cover loosely with plastic wrap and set aside until puffed and nearly doubled in size, about 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 370°F (180 C) with a rack in the center. Uncover the buns and bake until golden brown and cooked through, about 20 minutes.

Let cool slightly, then, if you did not use the marmalade, dust the buns generously with confectioners’ sugar.

Serve warm or at room temperature.

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I describe here how you can make it into savory or sweets treats.

No need to make them both the same day, though. Just keep half the dough in the fridge to stuff and bake within the next 2-3 days making the sweet or savory version.  

You also can form into loaves or small buns and eat instead of any other bread; it makes wonderful sandwiches.

The cheese-stuffed bread is a lovely accompaniment to soups and vegetable dishes, or served as meze with  drinks. The chocolate bread can be part of breakfast or accompany soft cheese or served with tea, and coffee.

Yields 2 round loaves

1 cup fine semolina or pasta flour

3 1/2 cups all purpose flour

1  cups whole wheat flour

1 cup ground flax seeds (optional) or an additional 1/2 cup whole wheat flower

1 cup ground sunflower seeds

1 tablespoon instant dry yeast (1 package)

2 teaspoons salt

2/3- 1 teaspoon ground pepper

1 1/2 cup full-fat natural yogurt, preferably sheep’s milk (not thick Greek yogurt)

About 1  cup water (non chlorinated), or more, as needed

CHEESE STUFFING

1 cup crumbled feta

1 1/2 cup grated aged graviera or cheddar

1/2 cup dried whole-wheat breadcrumbs

CHOCOLATE STUFFING

200 grams semi-sweet dark chocolate, chopped

1 cup coarsely ground almonds

Olive oil for the bowl and the plastic wrap

2 tablespoons grape molasses or honey to brush the loaves (optional)

Place flours, ground seeds, yeast, salt and pepper in the bowl of a standing mixer and toss with a spatula. Make a well in the center and add the yogurt. Fit the bowl to the mixer and work with the dough hook on low for 1 minute.

With the motor running add water as needed and work the dough for 5 minutes or more, occasionally stopping to turn over the dough with a large spatula.

The dough should still be somewhat wet and sticky, but should start to come off the sides of the bowl. If too dry, add a little water, if too wet add a few tablespoons all purpose flour.

Lightly oil a large transparent or semi-transparent bowl, as well as a piece of plastic wrap. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and shape into a ball.  Transfer to the oiled bowl. Cover with the oiled plastic wrap and let rise until double its original volume: about 1 1/2 hour or more.

(When the dough has expanded to about 1 1/2 times its size you may transfer the bowl with the dough to the refrigerator, and leave it overnight and up to 24 hours. It will continue to rise slowly. Before proceeding further, bring to room temperature).

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and halve with a dough scraper.

For the cheese-stuffed bread: On the floured counter flatten one piece of dough with your palms, sprinkling with a little flour, then use a floured rolling pin to create a rectangle roughly 40 cm (16 inches) by 30 cm (11 1/2 inches).  Spread the cheeses all over the flattened dough, and sprinkle with the breadcrumbs. Press with your palms the stuffing and then roll the dough carefully, like a cigar to enclose the stuffing. Shape into a crown and transfer to a parchment-paper-lined baking sheet. With scissors cut slits half-way into the bread and brush with the molasses, if you like.

For the chocolate-almond bread: On the floured counter flatten the second piece of dough with your palms, sprinkling with a little flour, then use a floured rolling pin to create a rectangle roughly 40 cm (16 inches) by 30 cm (11 1/2 inches).  Spread the chocolate and almonds all over the flattened dough. Press with your palms the stuffing and then roll the dough carefully, like a cigar, to enclose the stuffing. Shape into a crown and transfer to a parchment-paper-lined baking sheet.

Cover with oiled plastic wraps and let the loaves rise for another 30 minutes –they won’t rise much.

Preheat the oven to 450°F (220 C)

Brush the breads with molasses or honey diluted in 2 teaspoons water, if you like.

Bake for 5 minutes, sprinkling the inside of the oven with water twice, then reduce the heat to 375 F (200 C) and continue baking the breads for 35 minutes or more, until golden brown an hollow-sounding when tapped at the bottom.

A meat thermometer inserted in the center should reach 205 F. When done, transfer to a rack to cool completely before you  slice to serve.

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I start with the baking-powder version, a variation on the original yeasted biscuits, which produces very good results quite fast. If you want to make a more interesting yeasted one as it was the custom in the old days, use my recipe for Yogurt Bread adding the saffron diluted in the milk, as I describe below, and the other spices (allspice, nutmeg and pepper). Make the dough, omitting the stuffings, and when it has risen form into doughnut-like paximadia or smaller biscuits. Sprinkle with caraway seeds, if you like.

These biscuits are great as snacks, with coffee or drinks, and are an ideal accompaniment to soft cheeses, both sweet and creamy ones, like manouri and ricotta, and sharp ones, like Gorgonzola, Roquefort or any other blue

Makes about 30-35 biscuits

1/2 cup milk

2/3 teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled

3 tablespoons honey, preferably thyme honey

3 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, sifted

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt

1/2–1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper (to taste)

1  teaspoon ground allspice

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1 cup thick sheep’s milk yogurt, or Greek Yogurt

1 large egg

4 tablespoons unsalted butter (1/2 stick), softened — or use 4 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 cup half-and-half

1/4 cup olive oil

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

In a small saucepan, combine the milk with the saffron threads and simmer gently over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring, until the milk is deep yellow (the saffron threads won’t dissolve completely). Stir in the honey, remove from the heat and let cool.

Combine the flour, baking powder, salt, white pepper, nutmeg, and allspice in a large bowl.

In a medium bowl, with an electric mixer, beat the yogurt with the egg and butter until creamy, about 2 minutes.

Add the cooled saffron milk, the half-and-half and oil and beat for 1 minute. Add to the flour mixture, stirring with a rubber spatula, to make a soft, oily dough; do not overmix.

Divide the dough in half, and shape one half into a log about 12 inches long; don’t worry if the dough isn’t perfectly smooth. Shape the rest into 4 or 5 ring-shaped breads. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper about 2 inches apart, and bake for about 30 minutes, or more, until the loaves are firm and the tops are starting to turn golden.

Reduce the heat to 200°F and leave the loaves in the oven for another 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool.

As soon as the loaf is cool, slice into 1/4-inch-thick slices, using a good serrated knife, and slice the rings horizontally. Place the slices directly on the middle rack of the oven.

Heat the oven to about 180˚ F and leave the slices to dry completely, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

You may need to place the biscuits in two racks, and change position 1-2 times while they dry.

Let the biscuits cool completely on racks after you turn off the heat.

Stored in airtight containers, they will keep for up to 6 months.

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