Its flavor depends on the incredible freshness of the simple fish I use, which in most cases is almost alive when I get it from the caïque, less than a few hours out of the water.

I usually make the broth the day before, refrigerate it, then finish the soup the next day.

In kakavia, the traditional fish soup of the Greek fishermen, all kinds of small fish that cannot be sold, the cheapest kinds you find that are not suitable for grilling or frying, are boiled for with plenty of olive oil and a few vegetables and herbs, until the flesh almost falls from the bones and the vegetables are very tender. Then all trhe ingredients of the pot are strained, and fish witrh vegetables served in a platter along with the broth which is dressed with more fruity olive oil and lemon juice. I heard that in Provence the somewhat scarry weevers are considered ideal for the bouillabaisse; we also use them in this simple traditional fish soup.

In my version, if a couple of larger fish are available, I carefully fillet them, drop the bones in the pot, and refrigerate or freeze the fillets, to be added in the soup at the very end since they need no more than 2-3 minutes cooking.

Between kakavia and bouillabaisse

I strain the broth from the small fish and after I remove all bones and heads, I pass it again through a very fine sieve to make sure all scales and small bones are removed. Then I sauté leeks or onions and two-three coarsely chopped garlic cloves in plenty of olive oil, then add potatoes and other vegetables, and finally the fish broth, cook until the vegetables are tender.

I know that some fish mongers sell fish carcasses which can be boiled to make the stock. Below is my basic fish soup recipe, but you can certainly play around with the quantities and ingredients adding more onions if you have no leeks, celery leaves instead of root etc. Taking inspiration from the bouillabaisse of Provence, I also add a pinch of saffron.

My mother used to mash coarsely in the food mill all the vegetables at the end, but I like to keep a few pieces of potato, zucchini, and peppers, to serve in the soup plates together with the fish fillets.

I suggest you read the Serious Eats to see a detailed Bouillabaisse recipe, and the Rouille, the garlicky and peppery mayonnaise-like sauce of Provence to serve alongside the fish soup.

NOTE that you could probably use clam juice, or a good quality ready made fish stock if available, and skip the first part of boiling the fish and vegetables. But I wouldn’t use the Japanese shaved, dried tuna, dashi, or combu. In my opinion their taste is somwhat too prominent and very different from the delicate flavor of small fish and fish bones. But, during the busy summer months many Greek taverns use them…

Serving 6-8

The FISH BROTH

3 ½ pounds small and/or medium fish, gutted and scaled –the larger fish filleted and the fillets refrigerated or frozen

3 cups dry white wine

A small celery root with leaves, or 3 large celery stalks

2 medium zucchinis, halved lengthwise, and/or 1-2 pieces squash

Most green part of 2-3 leeks, or 2 medium onions quartered

1 tablespoon allspice berries, bruised in a mortar

1-piece fresh ginger, about 2-inches, halved lengthwise

1 piece star anise

1 tablespoon anise seeds, coarsely ground in a mortar

About 1 ½ teaspoon sea salt, or more to taste

FINISHING the Soup

½-2/3 cup olive oil

1 large onion, or 2 leeks thinly sliced

2-3 large garlic cloves, sliced

2 medium potatoes peeled and cut into chunks

1 medium zucchini halved lengthwise; each piece cut into 3  

1 red and 1 green bell pepper, seeded and quartered

2 medium tomatoes, halved to remove the stem, then each piece quartered

1 pinch saffron soaked in ¼ cup boiling water

1-2 teaspoons Aleppo pepper or red pepper flakes, to taste

For SERVING

Juice of 1 lemon or more, to taste

A handful flat-leaved parsley leaves

Lemon halves or quarters

Fruity olive oil for drizzling

Rouille: peppery and garlicky mayonnaise-like sauce (optional)

In a large pot place the fish, all vegetables and spices, add the wine and water to just cover the lot, and cook in medium-high heat for about 45 minutes or more, until the flesh almost falls from the fish bones and all vegetables are very tender.

Strain the broth, setting aside the vegetables, after checking they are free from fish bones or scales.  Press and discard all other solids, then pass again the broth through a very small sieve. Set aside.

To finish the soup: In a skillet warm the olive oil and sauté the leeks or onion and the garlic until translucent, then add this to the rest of the vegetables and the fish broth; bring to a slow boil. Cook in medium-high heat until all vegetables are tender.  Remove half of the vegetables with a slotted spoon and set aside, then pass the rest through a food mill.

Return the broth to the pot, add the saffron, Aleppo or pepper flakes and lemon juice, and taste to correct the flavor. Add the fish fillets and the reserved vegetable pieces, and boil in high heat for about 3-4 minutes, or until the fish fillets are cooked, depending on their size.

Add freshly squeezed lemon juice, and either serve the soup in bowls or bring the pot to the table.

Serve a piece of the fillet and some of the vegetables along with the delicious broth, decorating with parsley sprigs and bringing extra lemon and olive oil to the table.

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Serves 2

2-4 fresh green chilies, minced

1-2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon dried mint, crumbled, or 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves

2-3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

4-5 tablespoons fruity extra-virgin olive oil

Salt, to taste

1 whole sea bream, branzino, porgy, or gray mullet (about 1 1/2  pounds), or any other head-on fish suitable for grilling

A few grindings of black pepper

1/2 cup finely diced peeled and seeded fresh tomato, drained

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

In a bowl add the chilies, garlic, mint, lemon juice, and olive oil.  Sprinkle with a little salt and mix thoroughly, then taste and adjust the seasonings.  It should be spicy.  Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes to 2 hours.

Broil the fish on both sides, or grill over a charcoal fire, turning once, until firm, almost done, about 15 minutes.  Remove from the heat and cover with aluminum foil. Let stand for 5 minutes.

Mix the sauce with the chopped tomato.

Serve the fish with the sauce on the side, or cut the fish open, remove the central bone and transfer the fillets to a heatproof platter.  Pour half the sauce over the fish, sprinkle with some pepper, and place under a very hot broiler for a few seconds before serving. 

Pass the rest of the sauce separately.

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Serves 6-8

8-10 medium-small calamari (1 ½ -2 pounds), cleaned, bone discarded, heads separated

Marinade

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

Good pinch Aleppo or Maras pepper, or Pepper Flakes to taste

Stuffing

3 tablespoons dried whole-wheat breadcrumbs or ground barley paximadia 

1/4 cup raw almonds (not peeled)

½ cup pitted firm green olives

Zest of 1 non treated lemon

2-3 sprigs fresh thyme, chopped

1 ½ – 3 teaspoons Aleppo or Maras pepper, or pepper flakes to taste

Salt

Wash calamari in and out and pat dry with paper towels. With scissors or a very sharp knife cut a ¼-ich slit on one side, near the pointed end of each calamari tube.

In a bowl mix the olive oil, lemon and chili to make the marinade. Toss the calamari (body and heads) in the marinade, rubbing with your finger and making sure that they are moist inside and out. Set aside for about 20 minutes.

In a blender pulse together the breadcrumbs, almonds, olives, zest, thyme and chili. Add salt sparingly, olives are usually quite salty.

Light the barbeque or heat the griddle.

Stuff each calamari tube with about 2 teaspoons stuffing and secure the top with a toothpick.

Place the stuffed calamari, cut side up, together with the heads on a well-oiled rack,  close to the burning coals, or on an a very hot griddle.

 As the calamari tubes puff up, press carefully with tongs to extract the air. Grill until firm and marked, turning once or carefully rolling, to cook and mark on all sides, brushing every now and then with the marinade, about 8 minutes total.

Slice and serve.

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You basically need no recipe if you would like to make it. Bear in mind, though, that using head-on fish is really important as it flavors the sauce and the potatoes beautifully.  Read more HERE.

Serves 4

2-4 (depending on the size) head-on, very fresh white fish (sea bass or striped bass, for example), about 2 ½ pounds (1.250 grams) total, gutted and scaled (See NOTE for filleted fish)

Sea Salt

2-3 medium baking potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced

2 lemons or more, mostly zested with a vegetable peeler, and cut into thin slices

Olive oil

3-4 tablespoons white wine, as needed

Lemon Juice, to taste

Sprigs of fresh thyme, or fennel

Freshly ground pepper to taste, or Aleppo/Maras pepper flakes

Rinse and salt the fish liberally, outside and inside the belly. Place on a plate covered with a double layer of paper towel and transfer to the refrigerator while you prepare the potatoes. Larger fish could be scored so they cook evenly and faster.

Heat the oven to 375 F (200 C)

Arrange the potatoes on a baking pan that would hold the fish somewhat snuggly – I always layer the pan with parchment paper; drizzle them liberally with olive oil, and 3-4 tablespoons wine, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add a few of the lemon slices. Toss the potatoes and transfer to the heated oven. Bake for 15-20 minutes, until the  potatoes begin to soften.

Take the pan out of the oven, toss the potatoes, then place the fish over the slices. Put 1-2 thyme sprigs inside the fish belly and arrange the lemon slices on each fish. Drizzle with olive oil and some lemon juice, sprinkle with thyme and put back in the oven.

Bake for about 20 minutes or more, depending on the size of the fish. Check with a thin knife to make sure it is cooked through. If it looks dry and needs more cooking –especially for larger fish—spritz with water a couple of times, and maybe cover loosely with parchment paper while cooking longer.

Serve hot, warm or room temperature.

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In my last book I have the vegetarian version of the stuffed leaves, although the original idea came to me from the salt-cod-stuffed lettuce leaves I had many years ago at a tavern near the archaeological site of ancient Corinth.  Here is my adaptation of that recipe.

WATCH the video

Make the dish at least a day in advance and let cool completely before refrigerating; then you can serve it room temperature or reheat briefly reheat it. Accompany with yogurt, labne or with skordalia (garlic sauce).

Serves 6

The fish (see Variation):
1 pound salt cod soaked overnight in several changes of water and drained
(or substitute any firm-fleshed fish fillets)
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 cup dry white or rosé wine
1-2 cinnamon sticks

The vegetables, rice etc.
2/3 cup olive oil
2 leeks, thinly sliced (white part plus some of the tender green)
2 cups onions, coarsely chopped
3 bunches large or medium chard leaves (see Note), stems cut off and reserved
4 large garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
1-2 teaspoon Maraş pepper or a pinch crushed red pepper flakes, to taste
1 cup medium-grain rice, such as Arborio, soaked in hot water for 10 minutes and drained
1 1/2 cup ripe tomatoes, cored and diced, or canned diced tomatoes with their liquid
2 medium carrots, grated
1 packed cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 cup finely chopped dill
1 teaspoon ground allspice
2 teaspoons turmeric
1 ½ teaspoons salt or more, to taste
Juice of 1 lemon and for serving 1-2 extra lemons, sliced or quartered
Extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling

Greek yogurt, labne or skordalia (garlic sauce) for serving (optional)

Drain the salt cod or fish fillets on paper towels, then remove any bones and skin and cut into thin strips. Sauté the fish in 1/4 cup olive oil in a large skillet for about 4 minutes, or until firm. Pour in the wine, add the cinnamon sticks and cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Heat 1/4 cup oil in a large skillet and sauté the leeks and onions over medium heat until soft, 8-10 minutes. Finely chop 1 1/2 cups of the tender chard stems and add to the leeks and onions. Sauté for 3 minutes and stir in the garlic, pepper and rice. Turn a few times. When the mixture starts to sizzle pour in the tomatoes, stir a couple of times, remove from the heat and transfer to a large bowl.

Add the fish, discarding the cinnamon sticks, the carrots, parsley, dill, allspice, turmeric and salt. Stir, cover and let stand for 10 minutes.

Line a pot with chard stems and any torn leaves.

Place a chard leaf, shiny side down, on the work surface, with the stem toward you.
Press and slide the back of a knife along the middle core of the leaf to crush the inner stem and to tenderize the leaf. Depending on the size of the leaf, place 2-3 tablespoons of the filling in a vertical line near the stem. Fold the two adjacent sides of the leaf over the filling, and then begin to fold and roll from the bottom. Roll-up the leaf like a cigar, not too tightly, making sure to bring the side edges in as you roll-up from the bottom

This will create a neat package. Place the stuffed leaf, seam side down, on top of the stems.
Continue with the remaining leaves and stuffing, placing the stuffed chard leaves tightly next to each other. When the bottom of the pot is full, make a second layer. Cover with any remaining leaves.

Pour the rest of the olive oil, lemon juice and enough water to almost cover the stuffed leaves. Place an inverted heatproof plate over the stuffed leaves to keep them from rising and unrolling as they cook. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes or until the rice is cooked. To check remove one stuffed leaf and taste.

Remove from the heat and let cool for at least 20 minutes in the pot. Carefully transfer to a serving platter, including the stems at the bottom, which are delicious!
If there is too much broth increase the heat and boil to reduce. Pour over the stuffed leaves.

Cool, and if you can, refrigerate the stuffed chard leaves overnight. They taste better the next day. To serve bring to room temperature and drizzle with fresh lemon and extra-virgin olive oil. If you like, accompany with thick yogurt, labne or skordalia (garlic sauce) if you like.

NOTE:
Use any kind of large chard leaf: white, yellow or red.
You can also stuff the outer leaves of romaine lettuce, or the smaller leaves of Chinese cabbage.

VARIATION: You can omit the fish and increase the rice to 1 1/3 cup, adding also 2/3 cup toasted pine nuts if you like. Make sure you adjust the seasonings; I suggest you part-cook in a small skillet 1-2 tablespoons of the stuffing and taste, before stuffing the leaves.

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Agristada and avgolemono both cleverly use eggs beaten with lemon juice to create an emulsion which thickens the cooking juices, much in the way the French use tangy crème fraîche.

Avgolemono is used with meat, fish, or just with vegetables. Fish soup avgolemono is usually cooked during the cold winter months, while lahano-dolmades (stuffed cabbage leaves) is one of the most iconic winter dishes. Besides the comforting chicken avgolemono soup,  magiritsa, is the festive Easter soup prepared with the spring lamb’s innards, flavored with scallions, and dill, and finished with tangy avgolemono.

The traditional, elegant avgolemono is often abused in restaurants where flour is used to thicken and stabilize it so that it can be endlessly re-heated.

Meat with greens, artichokes and/or other vegetables is sometimes called ‘fricassée,’ from the French chicken dish whose white, flour-thickened sauce has neither eggs nor lemons.

Here on Kea I learned to make avgolemono with the winter wild greens that are cooked with pork, while in the spring it complements the local, thorny artichokes that we braise with fresh fava pods and finish with an extra lemony avgolemono prepared using the wonderful, deep-yellow yolks of my neighbor’s eggs.

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The filling of this delicious pie from Cephalonia is unusual. The salty taste of seafood is complemented by the fresh flavor of zucchini, tomatoes, onions and garlic. The pie needs long, slow baking so that the rice can absorb the moisture in the filling and cook. The result is unbelievable. Octopus pies, a typical Lenten dish, are also prepared on Lesbos and other islands of the Aegean, but I love this particular version because of the special fragrance the cinnamon gives it.

This is a large pie, but any leftovers keep well for about 3 days in the refrigerator or can be frozen for up to 3 months, wrapped in aluminum foil and sealed in a zipperlock bag.

I often make it into small individual pies, especially if I use our homemade phyllo. Leftover, charcoal-grilled octopus can also be used in the stuffing, and a bay leaf at the bottom of the pan makes the pies fragrant.

Makes 10 to 12 servings   

2        pounds fresh or frozen octopus (1 large or several small) or 1 pound salt cod soaked overnight in several changes of water

1/2     cup dry red or rose wine

2        tablespoons olive oil, plus 1/4 cup if using salt cod

4        cups coarsely chopped onions

4        garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

1        teaspoon Aleppo pepper or pinch crushed red pepper flakes

1 1/2   pounds zucchini, coarsely grated

1        pound ripe tomatoes, cored and diced or grated (see page 27)

1        cup packed coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2/3     cup medium-grain rice, such as Arborio, soaked in warm water for 10 minutes and drained

1/2     teaspoon ground cinnamon

1        teaspoon salt

1 1/2   17 1/4-ounce packages (3 sheets) frozen puff pastry, thawed according to the package instructions OR homemade phyllo

If using fresh octopus, wash it well and place in a large nonreactive pot. (The octopus releases water as it cooks, so there is no need to add any.) Cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, or until the octopus changes color and curls up.

If using frozen octopus, place it in the pot directly from the freezer and cook over low heat, turning frequently, until it curls up. Increase the heat to high and cook to evaporate the excess liquid. Add the wine, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the octopus is tender when tested with a fork. Remove from the heat. Remove the octopus from the cooking liquid (set the pot aside) and let stand until cool enough to handle. Finely chop the octopus and set it aside in its liquid.

If using salt cod, drain on paper towels, then remove any bones and skin and cut into thin strips. Sauté in the 1/4 cup oil in a large skillet for about 5 minutes, or until firm. Pour in the wine and let cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 450°F (230 C)

In a large skillet, heat the 2 tablespoons oil and sauté the onions over medium heat until translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and pepper or pepper flakes and remove from the heat. In a large bowl, combine the octopus or salt cod with the cooking liquid, the onion mixture, zucchini, tomatoes, parsley, rice, cinnamon and salt.

Barely knead 2 sheets of the puff pastry together, then roll out on a lightly floured surface. Line a 12-x-18-inch baking dish with the pastry, trimming it to a 1-inch overhang. Add the octopus or salt cod mixture, smooth the top with a spatula. Stretch the remaining sheet of puff pastry to cover the filling. Fold the overhanging bottom pastry over the top crust and pinch the edges together to seal, crimping them to make a neat cord around the edge of the pan. Flatten the cord with the tines of a fork to prevent it from sticking up, or it will burn during baking. With a sharp knife, cut two slashes in the top, making a cross.

Bake for 15 minutes, sprinkling the top of the pie with water 8 to 10 times. Bake for 10 minutes more, then reduce the oven temperature to 350°F. Bake for 1 hour more, or until golden brown. Cover loosely with aluminum foil and bake for 15 minutes more. Turn off the oven, but leave the pie in the oven for 15 minutes.

Remove from the oven and let cool for at least 30 minutes, before cutting and serving.

Note: The pie can be cooled completely and refrigerated. Reheat in a preheated 350°F oven for about 20 minutes before serving.

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Just before serving heat the broiler or fire the BBQ and grill briefly over very high heat, just to caramelize the skin. Alternatively, you can grill the octopus on a non-stick skillet or stove-top grill, lightly coated with olive oil.

Serves 6-8 as meze 

2 pounds octopus (cleaned by your fishmonger), fresh or frozen

Marinade:     

1        cup olive oil

1/4     cup white wine or cider vinegar

Juice of 1 lemon

½        cup red wine

3        garlic cloves, finely chopped

2        teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled

1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper or freshly ground black pepper

1-2 lemons, quartered for serving

If using fresh octopus, wash it well and place in a large nonreactive pot. (The octopus releases water as it cooks, so there is no need to add any.) Cook over medium heat for 10-20 minutes, or until the octopus changes color and curls up. If using frozen octopus, place it in the pot directly from the freezer and cook over low heat, turning frequently, until it curls up. Increase the heat to high and cook to evaporate most of the liquid.

Let cool.

Marinate the octopus: Combine all the marinade ingredients in a large bowl or baking dish. Cut and separate the eight legs of the blanched octopus, place in the marinade and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate overnight and up to 3 days.

Drain the octopus and pat dry.

If you like, cook the marinade over medium–high heat, until reduced to 1 cup.

Brush the octopus with olive oil and grill (or broil) for 4 to 5 minutes per side. Alternatively, you can grill the octopus on a non-stick skillet or stove-top grill, lightly coated with olive oil.

Cut into bite-sized pieces, if you like, drizzle with the reduced marinade, if using, and serve with lemon wedges.

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Mine is not pink, but light green, as I use almost the entire, juicy scallions from my garden. The recipe evolved from my mother’s rengosalata –smoked herring or kipper spread– the meze she always served on Kathari Deftera (clean Monday), instead of the more common taramosalata.

An official holiday, Clean Monday marks the end of the Carnival and the beginning of spring. It is probably the continuation of ancient pagan feasts that have been incorporated to the Christian tradition. People eat outdoors —even if the moving feast happens on a cold February day— they fly kites, consume lots of wine and ouzo, and dance until sunset.  See MORE here, and also in my previous post about some of the food I had prepared, and if you like, read a more extensive account about the customs and roots of this unusual Greek feast, and also about the lunch I had organized at the Oxford Symposium inspired by Kathari Deftera.

Makes about 4 cups.

2/3 – 1 cup (about 120 grams) good quality pale (NOT pink) tarama or cured fish roe or thinly sliced smoked herring fillet and/or roe (see note)
2-3 medium-small potatoes, peeled, boiled and mashed (about 2  1/2cups mashed potatoes)

4-5 scallions, white and most of the green part, coarsely chopped
¼ -1/2 cup fresh lemon juice, or more, to taste
½ cup light olive oil

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
Crusty fresh bread or thin toasted baguette slices, for serving

Put 2/3 cup tarama or smoked herring, half the mashed potatoes, ¼ cup lemon juice and the scallions in the bowl of a blender or food processor. Process to a coarse paste. With the motor running pour in slowly the light olive oil and then half the extra virgin, until you have a thick creamy paste. Taste and add more tarama or herring, and/or more potato, to get the taste you like, adding the rest of the olive oil and more lemon juice to brighten the spread.

Keep in mind that the flavor should be quite strong, fishy and lemony, as the spread is going to be served with bread.

Transfer to a bowl cover and refrigerate for a few hours or, better, overnight.

Serve with fresh bread or toasts.

NOTE: What Greeks call tarama, is the salted and cured roe of the cod, carp, or grey mullet. It is processed and imported to Greece in bulk usually from Iceland. In the US importers of Greek products used to sell the inferior quality, red-died tarama. You don’t need to use this; just get any kind of good quality cured fish roe, or the carp roe (tarama) packaged by Krinos.

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Serve on slices of crusty or toasted bread, as part of a meze spread, or take my lead and serve as main course, complementing greens, vegetables, beans or grain dishes – Sardeles Marinates is extremely versatile and easy to pair.

SERVES 4-6

1 pound 3-4-inch sardines, anchovies or mackerel fillets

About 1/4 cup white wine or cider vinegar, as needed

Salt

1⁄3 cup fresh lemon juice

3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced, or 3 scallions, white plus most of the green part, thinly sliced

3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or a combination of parsley, dill or chervil

3⁄4 cup good olive oil or more, as needed

Lemon slices or Sprigs of fresh parsley, or dill for serving

Line a tray with a double layer of kitchen paper. Working with one sardine at a time, under cold running water gently scale the fish with a dull knife. Cut off the head and run your finger along the belly, removing and discarding the innards.

With a knife, carefully open the fish like a book. With the tip of the knife loosen the spine and pull down to remove, together with any other bones. Cut off the spine at the base and keep the tail on. Sprinkle the deboned sardine with about 1 teaspoon of vinegar and transfer to the paper-lined tray to dry. Continue preparing the rest of the sardines, leaving them on the paper until you have cleaned them all.

Choose a glass or clay dish and make a layer of the butterflied sardines, skin side down, which covers the bottom of the dish. Sprinkle with salt, drizzle with some lemon and a little vinegar, scatter some garlic and parsley, or any herbs you choose, and then make more layers, always skin-side down. Repeat the process – sprinkle salt, lemon-vinegar, garlic and herbs over each layer until you have arranged all the fish. Top with enough olive oil to cover the fish by about 1/4 inch, pressing lightly with your hand to make sure all the fish are immersed in oil and that there are no air pockets.

Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3-4 hours and up to 7 days.

To serve, carefully remove as many sardines as you need. Fold each sardine to ‘close’ and ‘reconstruct’ the fish, if you like, or place them nicely skin-side up. Arrange on a small dish, drizzle with olive oil and decorate with lemon slices or herbs.

You can also serve the butterflied sardines on slices of toasted bread, skin-side up, sprinkling with chopped herbs, if you like.

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