In Israel you will most often find the vivid pink ‘borani’, made with beets and beet greens instead of spinach (see variation). 

As an alternative to the traditional pita bread, I prefer to spread it on toasted whole wheat or multi-grain bread, rubbed with a clove of garlic.

It can also be a side dish, accompanying poached or grilled fish or chicken.

Makes about 3 cups.

1 1/2 pounds spinach leaves, washed and coarsely chopped

1 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

½ cup cilantro chopped

3 cups thick yogurt

2-3 garlic cloves, minced, to taste

1-3 jalapeňos, finely chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/2 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped (optional)

Borage flowers, and mint (optional) 

Place the spinach in a saucepan over high heat, cover, and let it wilt without adding more water than what clings on the leaves. It needs only 2 to 3 minutes. Toss once or twice while cooking, and be careful not to let it burn. Remove the spinach from the heat, place in a colander, and let cool and drain. Press with your hands to remove as much liquid as possible. Chop finely.

In a bowl, combine the spinach with the parsley, cilantro, yogurt, garlic, and chilies, stirring well. Add a little salt and taste. Adjust seasoning with more salt and a little black pepper. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or overnight.

Spread on toasts, sprinkle with walnuts and serve as an appetizer, or transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle with walnuts, or decorate with borage flowers and mint.

VARIATION:

Pink Borani with Beets

Dice 4-5 large cooked and peeled beets (together with their cooked stems and greens, if you like) and mix with the garlic, yogurt and jalapenos (as above).

Omit the parsley and cilantro, and flavor with ½ cup chopped dill, some chopped fresh mint, and the zest of ½ lemon. Sprinkle with sumac, if you like. 

I add 2-3 tablespoon lemon juice, as beets are quite sweet for my taste, but you may not agree with me…

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Scroll down for Oven-roasted Patties, a VARIATION I developed for EATING WELL magazine

part of a piece about the healthy Cooking of Crete (March 2020).

. 

Makes 6 to 8 meze servings

4 cups grated zucchini (3-4 zucchini)

1 cup finely chopped onion, or bunch of scallions finely sliced/chopped, white and most of the green parts              

Salt

1 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 cup grated hard myzithra, kefalotyri, Pecorino Romano, or Parmesan cheese

1/2 – 1 cup toasted whole-wheat breadcrumbs

1 large egg

1/2 cup chopped basil leaves

1 tablespoon Greek dried oregano

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Olive oil and safflower oil, for frying

1 cup thick Greek yogurt (optional) or tzatziki

Toss the zucchini and onion with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and let them drain in a colander for at least 1 hour. Squeeze handfuls of the mixture to extract as much water as possible.

In a large bowl, combine the zucchini, parsley, cheese, 1/2 cup breadcrumbs, egg, basil, oregano, and pepper to taste.

In a large, deep skillet, heat 1 1/2 inches of a combination of olive and safflower oil over medium-high heat to 350°F.

Make a test fritter: Stir the zucchini mixture and, using a spoon, scoop a heaping tablespoon (about the size of a golf ball). Fry in the hot oil, turning once, until browned, about 3 minutes. If too wet, adjust the texture with more breadcrumbs, as needed. Also correct the seasonings, adding more salt and pepper as necessary. Fry the rest of the fritters, in batches, and transfer to paper towels to drain.

Serve them hot or warm, accompanied with thick yogurt, if you like, or tzatziki. Also good at room temperature.

VARIATION

Oven-roasted Zucchini Turnovers

Preheat the oven to 400F.

Oil a baking sheet, or better line the pan with parchments paper and brush it with olive oil.

Stir the zucchini mixture and using a spoon or a ¼ measuring cup, scoop from the zucchini mixture and with the help of a second spoon dredge in the breadcrumb-flour, shape into a flattish patty and place on the lined baking dish. Shape the rest of the mixture then brush the patties liberally with olive oil and bake in the middle of the oven for about 20 minutes, or until golden brown.

Depending on your oven, you may need to flip the patties after 15 minutes to get them evenly baked.

Serve hot, warm or at room temperature, with yogurt on the side, if you like…

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When I made the salad again I wanted to imitate this brine, but also somehow incorporate into the beans the flavor of the traditional lemon-coriander green olives from Cyprus, which I love. I was in luck, as I found the perfect rendition of these exquisite olives described in Dimitra’s blog.  She write that she is “a Greek Cypriot girl born and raised in London,’ and in her blog posts lots of traditional Cypriot dishes, but also foods from all over the world, things she cooks at home for her family. 

I suggest you dress and make lots of Dimitra’s wonderful green olives –not just the ones you need for the bean salad. I am sure you will enjoy nibbling on them with some good, crusty bread, anytime of the day… 

Serves 4-6 as part of a meze spread

3 cups cooked giant beans (see NOTE)

1 1/2 cups not pitted green olives —SEE HERE how to imitate the cracked, Greek ones

4 large scallions, white plus most of the green, thinly sliced

DRESSING:

4 tablespoons fruity olive oil

3 tablespoons lemon juice, or more to taste

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, or more, to taste

1-2 teaspoons coarsely cracked coriander seeds

1-2 teaspoons white wine (optional) 

Salt to taste (remember that the olives may be quite salty)

Aleppo, or red pepper flakes, to taste

A handful chopped dill

A handful torn mint leaves

In a large bowl toss the beans with the olives and the scallion.

In a jar add the olive oil, lemon, mustard, 1 teaspoon white wine or water, salt and red pepper flakes to taste. Close the jar with the lid and shake well to mix. If you make the Cypriot green olives, use some of their dressing for the beans.

Pour the dressing over the beans, add the dill and mint, toss and taste to correct the seasoning, before serving. 

NOTE:

I like to have cooked beans in my freezer, so that I can whip up any dish I like in no time.

1 pound (2 cups) dried beans makes about 5-6 cups of cooked beans.

Soak 1 pound of beans in water overnight. makes about 5-6 cups of cooked beans. in water overnight. Drain, place in a pot and cover with plenty of cold water. Bring to a boil, skim, reduce the heat, sprinkle with one tablespoon of oregano, and simmer for 40 min or more, until the beans start to be tender. Drain, and keep the liquid, if you like, to use it for making risotto or pasta. 

Let the beans cool completely and store in Ziploc bags in the freezer. 

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Crumble them over salads, like the one with beets and arugula, or slice the log-shaped cheese and serve it on its own as an appetizer, drizzled with good, fruity olive oil.

You can also preserve shanklish in jars, submerged in olive oil, in the refrigerator; it will keep for up to 4 months or more.

Adapted from my Mediterranean Vegetarian Feasts

Detail from a photo by Penny De Los Santos

Sun-drying laban—a fresh cheese made by straining yogurt—was one means, before the invention of cold storage, to preserve perishable dairy products. The cheese was shaped into balls and then rolled in an aromatic mix of seasonings—za’atar, red pepper flakes, or a mixture of local herbs and spices—and then dried completely until rock-hard, finally ready for extended storage in clay jars.

These fermented, extremely pungent shanklish balls are a multipurpose spice in their own right. Ground with a mortar and pestle, they can be used to provide different dimensions of flavor to salads and vegetable dishes.

For about 32 golf-ball-size pieces, or 2 logs

THE CHEESE BALLS

¾ pound (340 g) feta cheese, crumbled

2 cups (500 g) full-fat Greek-style yogurt

4 cloves garlic, minced

3 teaspoons Maraş pepper, or crushed red pepper flakes, to taste

1 tablespoon dried Greek oregano

THE SPICE MIXTURE

⅓ cup (about 15 g) fresh thyme leaves

⅓ cup (about 35 g) coarsely ground coriander seeds

3 tablespoons coarsely ground pink peppercorns

¼ cup (25 g) dried thyme

2 to 3 teaspoons Maraş pepper, or crushed red pepper flakes, to taste

Olive oil, for preserving

Make the cheese balls: In a bowl, whisk together the feta, yogurt, garlic, Maraş pepper, and oregano.

Line a tray with parchment paper. Scoop out about ⅓ cup (80 ml) of the cheese mixture at a time (use a small ice cream scoop, if you have one) and place dollops on the tray, next to one another but not touching.

Place the tray in the refrigerator, uncovered, and leave for at least 2 days, until the mixture is dry enough to shape into balls.

Make the spice mixture: In a bowl, blend all the spice mixture ingredients well. Then spread the mixture on a plate. Roll the cheese balls in the spices to coat on all sides. Alternatively, you can knead 2 to 3 balls together and shape the mixture into small logs, then roll them in the spice mixture and dry. They can then be sliced and served on bread or drizzled with olive oil.

Place the formed shanklish (either the balls or logs) on a clean parchment paper–lined tray. Let dry in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days more.

Fill a jar with the dried cheese balls and add just enough olive oil to cover.

Keep in the refrigerator but take out an hour before serving and let come to room temperature, as the olive oil solidifies in the fridge.

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I love melanzane alle noci e mandorle, the sweet and sour Calabrian eggplants that are crunchy with nuts and fragrant with basil and mint. They are great as a side dish with any cold meat, with grilled lamb chops or chicken legs. Traditionally, though, they are an antipasto (appetizer) served on the sideboard.

They also make a wonderful bruschetta if spread on toasted bread with shavings of parmesan, thin slices of mozzarella, manouri or sprinkled with crumbled feta. I often add grilled peppers –either home made, or store-bought– with the eggplants, and in the winter diced roasted squash is another interesting companion. Adjust the spicing of the  sauce accordingly.

Adapted from my Mediterranean Hot and Spicy.

Makes 6-8 appetizer servings

2-3 eggplants (about 2 pounds total), cut into 1-inch cubes

Salt

3-4  tablespoons olive oil

The Sauce

4 cloves garlic or more to taste, minced

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped almonds

1/2  cup coarsely chopped walnuts

8-10 basil leaves

5-6 mint leaves

1/2  cup good quality red wine vinegar

2  teaspoons honey or to taste

1-3 good pinches chopped dried peperoncini, or either Aleppo or Maras pepper or Red Pepper Flakes to taste

3 tablespoons sultanas

Generously salt the eggplants, toss and let drain in a colander for 1 hour, tossing once. Rinse under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Preheat the broiler. Layer a baking sheet with parchment paper and place the eggplant cubes on it  in a single layer. Drizzle with oil, toss and set the baking sheet about 5 inches from the heat source. Broil, tossing once, until golden, about 10-15 minutes. (You may need to do this in batches).

Alternatively you can stir-fry the eggplant cubes in olive oil, then drain on paper towels.

Transfer the eggplants to a large bowl and add the garlic, salt, almonds and walnuts. Tear with your fingers the basil and mint leaves to pieces, or cut with scissors and add to the eggplants, tossing briefly.

In a saucepan warm the vinegar with the honey, stirring just to mix. Remove from the heat, add the sultanas and peperoncini. Pour over the eggplants while still hot, toss and taste to adjust the seasoning with more salt or pepper. Let cool, cover and refrigerate for 2-3 hours or overnight, and preferably for 1 day.

Let come to room temperature before serving.

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An Ottoman Sultan, a French Princess…and Hünkar Beğendi – all the necessary ingredients for romance, intrigue, and culinary invention.  According to legend this rich and creamy eggplant puree was created in the 18^th century by one of the Sultan’s cooks.  The occasion was a dinner given in honor of a French Princess visiting the palace of the Ottoman ruler in Istanbul. The French were known for their love of vegetable purees, so the cook paid homage to the Princess by presenting an Oriental version, using the Empire’s most admired vegetable.  The dish was a great success.  We know less about the Sultan’s pursuit of the Princess…

In Turkey and in Greece hünkar traditionally accompanies a tomato lamb or beef stew. I love it on its own, or topped with my  Basic Tomato Sauce. You can also serve it with braised kale or other hearty greens. Hünkar makes a great appetizer: serve it with toasted pita triangles to scoop-up the creamy puree or spread it on toasted, garlic-rubbed multi-grain bread.

Adapted from my Mediterranean Vegetarian Feasts

Serves 4 as a main dish, or 8-10 as an appetizer

4            large eggplants (about 2 1/2 pounds, 1250 grams)

2            tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1/4        cup olive oil

3            tablespoons flour

2/3        cup full-fat milk or more, as needed

2            cups grated Gruyere or Cheddar, OR a combination of 1 cup crumbled Feta and 1 cup grated smoky provolone or cheddar

Freshly ground pepper, preferably white, to taste

Salt to taste

Pierce each eggplant in several places around the stem with a skewer, toothpick, or fork. Place on the rack, about 1 inch from the coals on a gas or charcoal grill, or under a very hot broiler. Turn the eggplant methodically, exposing all sides to the heat.  The skin will char evenly and the flesh will soften in about 10 minutes (see note page 000, Syrian Eggplant Spread). The slower and longer you roast, the smokier the taste. If using an electric stove, roast the eggplants, over moderate to low heat, on a ridged stovetop grill (which allows liquid to drain), turning as above, for 20-30 minutes.

Transfer the eggplants to a colander.  With a sharp knife halve lengthwise and let them drain for 10 minutes. Scoop out the flesh, discarding the skin and hard seeds. Mash the flesh with a fork and transfer to a medium bowl. Toss with the lemon to keep the flesh white.

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan or skillet warm the olive oil with the flour, stirring constantly until it starts to foam.  Remove from the heat and add the eggplant puree and milk, stirring constantly. Return to the stove and cook over medium-low heat, stirring, until the mixture becomes thick and creamy. If it is too thick add some more milk.

Remove from the heat, fold in the cheese and add several grindings of pepper. Taste and only then add salt, as the cheeses may be salty enough.

Serve immediately. You can cool and refrigerate the hünkar, but reheat it very slowly before serving.

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I describe here how you can make it into savory or sweets treats.

No need to make them both the same day, though. Just keep half the dough in the fridge to stuff and bake within the next 2-3 days making the sweet or savory version.  

You also can form into loaves or small buns and eat instead of any other bread; it makes wonderful sandwiches.

The cheese-stuffed bread is a lovely accompaniment to soups and vegetable dishes, or served as meze with  drinks. The chocolate bread can be part of breakfast or accompany soft cheese or served with tea, and coffee.

Yields 2 round loaves

1 cup fine semolina or pasta flour

3 1/2 cups all purpose flour

1  cups whole wheat flour

1 cup ground flax seeds (optional) or an additional 1/2 cup whole wheat flower

1 cup ground sunflower seeds

1 tablespoon instant dry yeast (1 package)

2 teaspoons salt

2/3- 1 teaspoon ground pepper

1 1/2 cup full-fat natural yogurt, preferably sheep’s milk (not thick Greek yogurt)

About 1  cup water (non chlorinated), or more, as needed

CHEESE STUFFING

1 cup crumbled feta

1 1/2 cup grated aged graviera or cheddar

1/2 cup dried whole-wheat breadcrumbs

CHOCOLATE STUFFING

200 grams semi-sweet dark chocolate, chopped

1 cup coarsely ground almonds

Olive oil for the bowl and the plastic wrap

2 tablespoons grape molasses or honey to brush the loaves (optional)

Place flours, ground seeds, yeast, salt and pepper in the bowl of a standing mixer and toss with a spatula. Make a well in the center and add the yogurt. Fit the bowl to the mixer and work with the dough hook on low for 1 minute.

With the motor running add water as needed and work the dough for 5 minutes or more, occasionally stopping to turn over the dough with a large spatula.

The dough should still be somewhat wet and sticky, but should start to come off the sides of the bowl. If too dry, add a little water, if too wet add a few tablespoons all purpose flour.

Lightly oil a large transparent or semi-transparent bowl, as well as a piece of plastic wrap. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and shape into a ball.  Transfer to the oiled bowl. Cover with the oiled plastic wrap and let rise until double its original volume: about 1 1/2 hour or more.

(When the dough has expanded to about 1 1/2 times its size you may transfer the bowl with the dough to the refrigerator, and leave it overnight and up to 24 hours. It will continue to rise slowly. Before proceeding further, bring to room temperature).

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and halve with a dough scraper.

For the cheese-stuffed bread: On the floured counter flatten one piece of dough with your palms, sprinkling with a little flour, then use a floured rolling pin to create a rectangle roughly 40 cm (16 inches) by 30 cm (11 1/2 inches).  Spread the cheeses all over the flattened dough, and sprinkle with the breadcrumbs. Press with your palms the stuffing and then roll the dough carefully, like a cigar to enclose the stuffing. Shape into a crown and transfer to a parchment-paper-lined baking sheet. With scissors cut slits half-way into the bread and brush with the molasses, if you like.

For the chocolate-almond bread: On the floured counter flatten the second piece of dough with your palms, sprinkling with a little flour, then use a floured rolling pin to create a rectangle roughly 40 cm (16 inches) by 30 cm (11 1/2 inches).  Spread the chocolate and almonds all over the flattened dough. Press with your palms the stuffing and then roll the dough carefully, like a cigar, to enclose the stuffing. Shape into a crown and transfer to a parchment-paper-lined baking sheet.

Cover with oiled plastic wraps and let the loaves rise for another 30 minutes –they won’t rise much.

Preheat the oven to 450°F (220 C)

Brush the breads with molasses or honey diluted in 2 teaspoons water, if you like.

Bake for 5 minutes, sprinkling the inside of the oven with water twice, then reduce the heat to 375 F (200 C) and continue baking the breads for 35 minutes or more, until golden brown an hollow-sounding when tapped at the bottom.

A meat thermometer inserted in the center should reach 205 F. When done, transfer to a rack to cool completely before you  slice to serve.

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The dough is the one I use for my everyday breads, sometimes adding yogurt if I have leftover that is going too sour or any kind of mashed vegetables or greens.

See also the Tomato and Cheese topped bread, the Smoked Cheese and Kumquat Bread which is basically the winter version of my topped breads. For a more spicy-aromatic topping spread Zaatar mixed with olive oil over the tomatoes.

Makes TWO large Laganes (flat breads), or FOUR smaller 10X7 inch (25X18,5 cm) breads, serving 8-12 people as appetizer 

2 cups fine semolina or pasta flour
3 cups all purpose flour
1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour
2 teaspoons instant dry yeast
2 teaspoons salt
3 1/2 teaspoons mixed ground coriander seeds, caraway and mahlep (optional)
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper (optional)
About 3 cups spring water (preferably non chlorinated), as needed

TOPPING:

4 large red bell peppers, seeded, cut into slices and fried in 1/3 cup olive oil, until soft

3 1/2 cups crumbled feta cheese

3-4 tablespoons or more rosemary leaves

Olive oil for drizzling

Finishing salt and Aleppo pepper, or freshly ground black pepper, to taste (optional)

Place flours, yeast and spices in the bowl of a standing mixer and toss with a spatula. Make a well in the center and pour in the 2 cups of water.

Fit the bowl to the mixer and work with the dough hook on low for 1 minute. With the motor running add water as needed and work the dough for 5 minutes or more, occasionally stopping to turn over the dough with a large spatula. The dough should still be wet and somewhat sticky, but should start to come off the sides of the bowl. If too dry, add a little more water, if too wet add a few tablespoons of all purpose flour.

Lightly oil a large transparent or semi-transparent bowl, as well as a piece of plastic wrap. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured surface and shape into a ball. Transfer to the oiled bowl. Cover with the oiled plastic wrap and let rise until double its original volume: about 1 hour or more.

(When the dough has expanded to about 1 1/2 times its size you may transfer the bowl with the dough to the refrigerator, and leave it overnight and up to 24 hours. It will continue to rise slowly. Before proceeding further, bring to room temperature).

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and halve with a spatula or cut into 4 pieces.

Lightly oil Four 10X7 inch (25X18,5 cm) pan lined with parchment paper.

Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper,–or four 10X7 inch (25X18,5 cm)– and place one piece of dough on each. Wet your fingers and push the dough making dimples with wet fingers, expanding it to fill the baking sheet. Cover with oiled plastic wraps and let the flat breads rise for another 30 minutes –they won’t rise much.

Preheat the oven to 450°F (240° C).

Spread most the crumbled feta over each of the breads pushing and making dimples again, then arrange the fried peppers on top of the cheese, to almost cover the surface. Sprinkle with rosemary, and drizzle lightly with olive oil. If you like, sprinkle with some finishing salt and pepper.

Turn on the broiler and place the first baking sheet 5-6 inches from the broiler. Bake for about 5 minutes, until the cheese is bubbling. Move the bread to the bottom of the oven, and slide the other baking sheet to its place. After another 5 minutes, turn off the broiler and lower the heat to 375°F.

Transfer the second bread closer to the bottom of the oven, bellow the first, and continue baking for another 15 minutes, changing once more the positions of the breads –always at the lower part of the oven. Check that both breads are well browned on top and bottom, or bake them a bit longer. When done, transfer to a rack to cool for about 10 minutes, before slicing to serve.

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