I originally wrote and posted this seven years ago, as I was going through my first-grade school book published right after the Second World War. In it there was a description of fassoláda (bean soup), which was often referred to as ‘the Greek national dish’ in the old days. Surprisingly, the version in my book had no tomato! I was shocked, as fassoláda is always made with tomatoes as far as I can remember, but probably in those days canned tomatoes as well as tomato paste were not yet a common ingredient in all households. See also how the kitchen and stove looked in most parts of the country the 1950ies…

My revised recipe below is flavored with the wonderful Piperokama, the dried, smoked, hot peppers of Florina that our friend Naoumidis prepares.  I am told that it will be soon available in the US, as are his other deeply flavored roasted peppers which you can order  HERE and also HERE. 

We love to eat fassolàda with feta cheese, but also with canned sardines in olive oil or any smoked fish.

A simple bowl of olives, and/or taramosalata is the custom during the days of Lent, preceding Christmas.

Serves 4-6

2 cups dried white beans, like cannelini, soaked overnight in water and drained, or 4 cups pre-cooked beans

2/3 cup olive oil

2 small onions, halved and thinly sliced (about 2 cups)

4 large garlic cloves, sliced

2 tablespoons (70 grams) tomato paste

3 medium-small carrots, thinly sliced (about 2 cups)

One 16-ounce can diced tomatoes with their juice or 2 cups grated ripe tomatoes 

1 tablespoon turmeric

Peel from half an orange, in 2 strips or 2-3 pieces preserved lemon, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon sea salt, plus more to taste

2 teaspoons Piperokama, or Maraş (Aleppo) pepper, or crushed red pepper flakes, to taste

2 cups coarsely chopped celery, preferably ‘wild’ (see note)

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Extra-virgin olive oil to drizzle

Fleur de sel, preferably from Kythera, to sprinkle

1 lemon, quartered, to serve (optional)

Place the beans in a large pot and cover with plenty of water, about 3-4 inches. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook 5 minutes. Drain, discarding the cooking water. If you use pre-cooked beans omit this step.

In the pot warm the olive oil, add the sliced onion and sauté for 3 minutes, stirring often. Add the garlic, sauté one minute more then add the tomato paste and stir a few seconds. Add the peas, if you use them, along with the carrots and the precooked beans. Toss a few times and add the tomatoes, turmeric, orange peel, salt, Maraş pepper, celery, and 2 cups water.

Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, adding water as needed, until the beans are very tender, almost mushy. Add the mustard, taste and adjust the seasoning. Simmer for 5 minutes more, until the beans are just covered with broth.

Remove from the heat and serve, drizzling with extra-virgin olive oil.

Pass the lemon quarters so people can add a fresh, bright squeeze at the table, and also pass Piperokama or Maraş pepper, as well as good Fleur de sel, we use the one from Antheas, so diners can sprinkle more over the beans.

NOTE:

If you use common celery add an extra 1/2 cup coarsely chopped flat leaf parsley with the mustard toward the end of cooking.
The leaf or‘wild’ celery commonly used in Europe is strongly aromatic and looks like oversized flat leaf parsley. You can easily grow it in your garden or in pots. It is very different from American celery, which has long crunchy stalks, and wild celery is never eaten raw.
You can get leaf or ‘wild’ celery in Asian markets under the name kun choi or kin tsai. When you find it, buy it in quantity, wash it, coarsely chop it and keep it in zip-log bags in the freezer to use as needed. Unlike common celery, it does not keep long in the refrigerator.

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My recipe is inspired by the soups of Gaziantep, which often combine bulgur and/or chickpeas with the lentils.

Photo by PENNY DE LOS SANTOS  from my Mediterranean Vegetarian Feasts.     

The pulses in Turkey are usually cooked with lamb or beef bones to add body, and the soup is finished with aromatic-infused butter, though olive oil is an excellent alternative.

Vegetarians can make the soup more substantial by adding diced feta, as Costas and I do, or complement with grilled halloumi cheese.

Serves 6 to 8 

1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil, plus 1/3 cup (80 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup (160 g) chopped onions

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup (220 g) red lentils rinsed in a colander under running water

2 medium carrots, thinly sliced

1 cup (160 g) precooked wheat berries (see Note)

1/2 cup (100 g) precooked chickpeas (optional)

1 tablespoon turmeric

3 tablespoons tomato paste

1 to 2 teaspoons Maraş pepper or 1/2 to 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, to taste

1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons combination of cumin, ground coriander, and dried basil, to taste

1/4 cup (15 g) chopped fresh basil leaves, or shredded fresh tarragon plus 1 teaspoon or more dried basil or tarragon; reserve extra leaves to decorate

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Sumac, for sprinkling (optional)

In a thick-bottomed pot, warm 1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil, add the onions, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt, and sauté for about 6 minutes, until the onions are soft.

Add the lentils and carrots, turn a couple of times in the oil, and pour in 2 quarts (2 L) water. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, adding more water as needed to keep the lentils covered.

Add the wheat berries, the chickpeas, if using, the turmeric, the tomato paste, the Maraş pepper, and the spice blend. Stir to incorporate and add more water to cover. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, simmering for at least 20 minutes, until all the ingredients are very soft. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Purée the soup to a thick, chunky consistency with a stick blender, or transfer to a food processor and pulse several times.

In a skillet, over very low heat, warm the extra-virgin olive oil with the fresh and dried basil or tarragon  and plenty of pepper.

Serve the soup in bowls, adding swirls of the basil or tarragon-infused oil, decorating with herb leaves, and sprinklings of sumac, if you like. Also, add 1-2 tablespoons diced feta cheese, if you like.

NOTE: 

Precooking Pearl Barley, Wheat Berries, and Farro

Pearl barley, wheat berries, and farro need longer cooking than rice or bulgur, but their incomparable earthy, nutty flavor is ample compensation for the extra work. In order to be able to add the grains to stuffing and pilafs whenever you feel like it, precook 1 to 2 pounds (455 to 910 g) of your favorite grains and keep them in the freezer.

Makes 2 1/2 to 3 cups (400 to 480 g) cooked grains

1 cup pearl barley, wheat berries, or farro

Place the grains in a pot and add cold water to cover by 2 inches (5 cm). Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer half the time recommended on the package. Cooking times vary greatly between brands, so carefully check the cooking times suggested on the package.

Taste, and if the grains are still quite hard, continue cooking. Taste again after 10 minutes. You want the grains al dente, not mushy. Drain and let cool completely, then transfer to a zip-top bag and freeze flat. They will keep for up to 6 months.

To finish cooking, take out the bag, beat on the counter to loosen the grains, and use as many as you need. Close the bag and return to the freezer.

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In Crete chickpeas are commonly flavored with bitter (Seville) orange, while in most other islands lemon is used. I think orange peel is a wonderful substitute for the bitter orange, along with some lemon juice. This simple chickpea dish, like the one without squash, should be made with the best quality, preferably organic dried chickpeas, not the canned ones. Their flavor is so much more interesting. 

I add mustard, something I learned from my mother who claimed that it made all pulses more digestible. I’m not sure it does, but it certainly deepens the flavor of the beans and chickpeas.

I start describing the long, old fashioned oven-cooked method, and then I add my way of making the dish fast, with pre-cooked, frozen chickpeas without losing its original flavor and texture –by the way I, as most Greeks, like the chickpeas meltingly tender, somewhat mushy, not chewy.

I developed this recipe for EATING WELL magazine; part of a piece about the healthy Cooking of Crete (March 2020).

Serves 6-8

         2 cups dried chickpeas, preferably organic (see NOTE 2)

        1 teaspoon baking soda (optional)            

       1 ½ teaspoons Salt, or to taste       

       1/3  cup olive oil          

       2 1/2  cups coarsely chopped onions        

       2-5  teaspoons Aleppo or Maras pepper, or Hot Red           Pepper Flakes to taste

      1  1/2 cups vegetable or Chicken Stock or more, as needed

         2 pieces fresh or dried orange peel (about 4-5 inches)

          1 cup coarsely chopped celery, preferably Mediterranean             leaf-celery

            About 2 pound butternut squash—peeled, seeded and               diced into 1-inch pieces

       2  tablespoons Dijon mustard

      3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or more to taste

       Extra virgin olive oil, preferably Greek, for drizzling

       Freshly ground black pepper

Soak the chickpeas overnight in plenty of water. Drain and rinse well under running water.

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200 C).

The traditional METHOD:

 In a medium bowl, combine the chickpeas salt and 1/4 teaspoon baking soda if you like, and toss well.

In a medium flameproof casserole or Dutch oven, heat the oil and sauté the onions over medium heat for 4 minutes, or until they start to soften. Stir in the chickpeas, salt, and Aleppo pepper or pepper flakes, then add the stock or water, the orange peel and celery. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat, and cover the dish with a double layer of aluminum foil and then the lid.

Reduce the oven temperature to 250°F place the casserole in the oven and cook for about 5 hours, or until the chickpeas are quite tender. Mix the mustard with the chickpeas together with the squash pieces, toss and continue baking for another 30minutes, or until the squash is tender. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding salt, more lemon juice, and black pepper to taste.

Drizzle with olive oil and serve hot, warm or at room temperature.

With Pre-cooked Chickpeas

In a sauté pan or casserole heat the oil and sauté the onions over medium heat for 4 minutes, or until they start to soften. Stir in 6 cups pre-cooked chickpeas (see NOTE below), salt, and Aleppo pepper or pepper flakes, toss a few times, then add the stock or water, the orange peel and celery. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to its minimum and simmer for 15 minutes.

Mix the mustard with the chickpeas together with the squash pieces, toss, and continue simmering for another 12-15 minutes, or until the squash is tender and the chickpeas start to get mushy.

Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding salt, more lemon juice, and black pepper to taste.

Drizzle with olive oil and serve hot, warm or at room temperature.

NOTE:    Pre-cooking Chickpeas

For 6-8 people:

2 cups (1 pound) dried Chickpeas yields about 6 cups cooked

1 or 2 pounds dried Chickpeas, preferably organic

2-4 Salt

1 teaspoon baking soda (optional)

Place 1 or 2 pounds Chickpeas in a large bowl, covering them with water by about 4 inches.  Let soak overnight, for 8-12 hours.

The next morning rinse the chickpeas under cold water, place in a large pot and add water to cover by about 4 inches. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, adding salt (2 teaspoons for 1 pound chickpeas, and 4 for 2 pounds) bring to a slow boil and simmer 15-20 minutes, or until the beans start to soften. Taste after 10 minutes – if they are still very hard, add the baking soda and cook 15 minutes more. Taste: the chickpeas should be almost soft, but not entirely cooked. Turn off the heat and let them cool in their broth.

Drain, let cool, then transfer to a Ziploc bag and freeze flat. They will keep for up to 6 months.

To cook, take out the bag, beat on the counter to loosen the beans, and use as much as you need. Close the bag and return to the freezer.

NOTE 2. Buy best quality Large, small or medium chickpeas

Try to get the best quality, freshest organic dried chickpeas. I prefer medium, but no matter the size, what is important is that they have not been sitting in the shelve for more than a few months. I have had chickpeas that cooked in just 15 minutes, and others, even with the addition of baking soda that helps them soften, needed more than an hour’s cooking to become edible, and never reached the meltingly tender texture that I love.

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When I made the salad again I wanted to imitate this brine, but also somehow incorporate into the beans the flavor of the traditional lemon-coriander green olives from Cyprus, which I love. I was in luck, as I found the perfect rendition of these exquisite olives described in Dimitra’s blog.  She write that she is “a Greek Cypriot girl born and raised in London,’ and in her blog posts lots of traditional Cypriot dishes, but also foods from all over the world, things she cooks at home for her family. 

I suggest you dress and make lots of Dimitra’s wonderful green olives –not just the ones you need for the bean salad. I am sure you will enjoy nibbling on them with some good, crusty bread, anytime of the day… 

Serves 4-6 as part of a meze spread

3 cups cooked giant beans (see NOTE)

1 1/2 cups not pitted green olives —SEE HERE how to imitate the cracked, Greek ones

4 large scallions, white plus most of the green, thinly sliced

DRESSING:

4 tablespoons fruity olive oil

3 tablespoons lemon juice, or more to taste

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, or more, to taste

1-2 teaspoons coarsely cracked coriander seeds

1-2 teaspoons white wine (optional) 

Salt to taste (remember that the olives may be quite salty)

Aleppo, or red pepper flakes, to taste

A handful chopped dill

A handful torn mint leaves

In a large bowl toss the beans with the olives and the scallion.

In a jar add the olive oil, lemon, mustard, 1 teaspoon white wine or water, salt and red pepper flakes to taste. Close the jar with the lid and shake well to mix. If you make the Cypriot green olives, use some of their dressing for the beans.

Pour the dressing over the beans, add the dill and mint, toss and taste to correct the seasoning, before serving. 

NOTE:

I like to have cooked beans in my freezer, so that I can whip up any dish I like in no time.

1 pound (2 cups) dried beans makes about 5-6 cups of cooked beans.

Soak 1 pound of beans in water overnight. makes about 5-6 cups of cooked beans. in water overnight. Drain, place in a pot and cover with plenty of cold water. Bring to a boil, skim, reduce the heat, sprinkle with one tablespoon of oregano, and simmer for 40 min or more, until the beans start to be tender. Drain, and keep the liquid, if you like, to use it for making risotto or pasta. 

Let the beans cool completely and store in Ziploc bags in the freezer. 

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A somewhat spectacular variation of the common dish we offered at the 2019 Oxford Symposium Dinner we cooked with chef Michael Costa. He preferred a perfectly smooth fava puree, and added basil leaves to my chopped scallions, herbs, and bitter greens, which made it perfect!  I also like to top fava with sweet-wine-braised capers and onions, a traditional Santorini condiment.

Long before Santorini became one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations it was one of Greece’s most destitute islands.  Poor on natural resources and badly exposed to the harsh winds of the Aegean, Santorini’s impoverished but ingenious inhabitants survived on whatever they could forage or cultivate in small terraced gardens on steep rocky hills.

Besides barley, the basic grain cultivated on most Cycladic islands, on alternate years, islanders used to plant grass peas, a variant of Lathyrus sativus – chickling vetch or grass pea, cicerchia in Italian and almorta in Spanish– a legume for which the generic name ‘fava’ is used throughout Greece. This primitive, drought-resistant pea “originated from the Balkan Peninsula in the early Neolithic age. It may have been the first domesticated crop in Europe around 6000 BCE, ” as mentions Feedipedia.  

Hand stone mills were used until recently to grind off the peas’ hard skins, splitting them, so that after a brief cooking they would be easily mushed into the yellow purée also called ‘fava’, a poor islanders’ staple since antiquity. Anya Anastasia Sarpaki writes that a unique archaeo-botanical material of “crops in the latest stage just before consumption,” was identified among the archaeological finds at Akrotiri, the Bronze Age settlement on Santorini (Thera). It “includes split legumes, bulgur-type cracked barley, and flour.”  Chickling vetch is used mainly as animal feed today, but recently local farmers on Santorini and on some parts of Central Greece have resumed its cultivation for human consumption, and the split lathyrus is now sold in gourmet stores.  Don’t let looks deceive you.  Although the dishes prepared with lathyrus and dal look the same, the taste of fava made with the heirloom legume has an infinitely more earthy and complex flavor than the one made with dal (yellow split peas).

Although fava is now synonymous with the popular meze, in the old days it was mostly cooked as yet another legume, like the red lentils in Turkey and the Middle East. I remember the yellow-split-pea fava soup I was forced to eat in my childhood, not my favorite winter dish, unlike lentils and beans. I confess I have not tried to make it again, since.   

Capers were also plentiful on Santorini and all the islands, so they were often treated like any other foraged green, elevated from a flavoring to the principal ingredient of a dish:  large, meaty capers were braised with plenty of onions and olive oil to make a frugal but hearty meal, consumed with bread or paximadia — hard barley rusks. 

Santorini Fava is served as a meze at taverns throughout Greece, often dressed simply with fruity olive oil, topped with sliced onions and dried Greek oregano. A somewhat spectacular variation of the humble dish  we prepared for the 2019 Oxford Symposium Dinner we cooked with chef Michael Costa. He preferred a perfectly smooth fava puree, and added some basil leaves to my chopped scallions, herbs, and bitter greens, which made it perfect!  I very much like to top fava  with sweet-wine-braised capers and onions, a traditional Santorini condiment; choose one of the two topping I suggest, and enjoy!

RECIPE: Santorini Fava with Two Toppings

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MORE about the legume’s history. 

A variation of this second version we prepared for the 2019 Oxford Symposium Dinner, we cooked with chef Michael Costa. He preferred a perfectly smooth fava puree, and added some basil leaves which made it perfect!   

Serves 8-10 as meze      

FOR THE FAVA

3            tablespoons olive oil

1            medium onion, finely chopped

2            teaspoons salt

2            cups yellow split peas (preferably split lathyrus, if available), picked over and rinsed

2            bay leaves

1            tablespoon turmeric

BRAISED CAPER-ONION TOPPING

1            cup good-quality medium or large capers, preferably salt-packed

1/2 – 2/3 cup olive oil    

3            cups halved and thinly sliced purple onions 

1            cup sweet red wine, such as Mavrodaphne or sweet Marsala    

2–3        tablespoons good red wine vinegar (optional if using brine-packed capers)

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Maraş pepper or freshly ground black pepper, to taste

SCALLION-HERB TOPPING:

One bunch green onions –white and most green part thinly sliced

1 medium radicchio thinly sliced

1 ½-2 cups capers

2-3 tablespoons juice from the capers

1-3 teaspoons lemon juice (to taste)

½ cup EVO or more, and extra fruity EVO to drizzle

Freshly ground pepper, preferably Aleppo/Maras Pepper

Borage or rosemary flowers (blue) to decorate (optional)

Basil sprigs (optional)

Cook the split peas:  Heat the olive oil in a skillet, add the onion, sprinkle with salt and sauté for about 5  minutes, until just soft.  Place the split peas in a large pot, add the sautéed onions with their oil, cover with water by 4 inches and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, skimming often, for 5 minutes.

Add the turmeric and bay leaves, simmer for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Add a little warm water, if needed, to keep the peas covered as they cook. The peas are done when they are very soft and almost dry . Puree with an immersion blender or transfer to a food processor and process. Let the puree cool completely; it will thicken considerably.

(Can be prepared to this point up to 3 days in advance. Store covered in the refrigerator and bring to room temperature before serving.)

Make the braised Onion-Caper Toping: If using salt-packed capers, place them in a colander and rinse under lukewarm running water for 2-3 minutes, or until they lose their excessive saltiness. If using brine-packed capers, rinse them well to remove most of their tartness. Dry the capers on paper towels.

In a deep skillet heat 1/4 cup of the oil and sauté the onions over medium heat, tossing often until soft, about 8  minutes. Add the capers and the remaining oil and cook for 2-3 minutes or until the capers start to sizzle. Pour in the wine and cook for 1 minute. Add a ½ cup of water, reduce the heat to low and cook for 8 minutes.

Turn the heat to high and cook, stirring, until the water has evaporated and the onions start to caramelize.  Remove from the heat and add vinegar and pepper to taste; you may not need to add vinegar if using capers that were packed in brine. Let cool before serving.

(The capers and onions can be made up to 3 days in advance, covered and refrigerated; bring to room temperature before serving.)

Make the Scallion-Herb Topping: Toss together the scallions, capers and juice, herbs, radicchio and other ingredients, minus the flowers, if using, at least 30 minutes before serving, and/or refrigerate for  up to 3 hours.  

TO SERVE:

Transfer the cooled split pea purée to a shallow bowl and spread it with a spoon, leaving about a 1 inch space all around from the edge of the bowl and the purée.  Use the spoon to create a well in the center of the purée.  Spread the onion-caper topping in and around the well. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle with Maraş or black pepper, if you like. 

If you serve with the Scallion-Herb Topping, add it in the center of the cooled split pea purée, drizzle with fruity olive oil, and sprinkle with the blue flowers and/or the basil leaves, if using.

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My mother often added sliced zucchini (see variation) when she wanted to save time, trimming fewer runner beans but still making enough food for all four of us. Fassolakia ladera, made with any kind of green beans, even with frozen ones, is an amazing dish! The potatoes take on a wonderful flavor cooked together with the beans in a rich tomato sauce, and I can’t resist eating them while still warm.

Sprinkle with the reserved parsley and serve warm or at room temperature, if you can wait, with crusty bread and Feta cheese.

Serves 4-6 

2/3 cup olive oil

2 cups onions, coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon sea salt, or to taste

3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

2 pounds fresh runner or young green beans, ends trimmed

1-2 teaspoons Maraş pepper, or a good pinch of crushed red pepper flakes

1 pound potatoes, cut in 1 ½-inch cubes

1 1/2 cups chopped flat-leaf parsley

A few grindings of black pepper

4-5 vine-ripened tomatoes, quartered and pureed in the blender (yields about 3 cups) or 3 cups canned diced tomatoes with their juice

Feta cheese, for serving (optional)

Heat 1/2 cup olive oil in a deep thick-bottomed skillet or sauté pan (an 11-inch pan is perfect).  Add the onions, sprinkle with the salt and sauté, tossing often, for 5 minutes. Add the garlic, beans, and Maraş pepper.  Sauté, tossing, for another 5-6 minutes or until the beans are well coated with olive oil.

Arrange the potatoes on top of the beans in one layer, pressing them to submerge them slightly in the beans. Season with salt and some black pepper, if you like, sprinkle with the parsley – reserving 2 tablespoons for serving – and  pour in the tomato.  Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Check periodically if there is enough liquid in the pan, adding just a few tablespoons of water if the sauce becomes too dry. Taste, correct the seasoning and continue cooking for about 10-15 minutes, occasionally shaking the pan.

When the beans and potatoes are cooked, transfer to a serving platter with a slotted spoon. Increase the heat and cook the sauce until it thickens. Pour the sauce over the beans and potatoes, sprinkle with the reserved parsley and serve warm or at room temperature with fresh country bread and Feta cheese.

VARIATION:

Add 1 pound tender zucchini, cut into 2/3-inch slices and sauté with the beans before arranging the potatoes and pouring the sauce over.

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Photo by MANOUSOS DASKALOGIANNIS 

I got the recipe from the North of Greece and I particularly love to bake it in the winter, but also all year round, as I am fed up with the common baked gigantes in tomato sauce that all taverns serve.

From my first book The Foods of Greece

Serves 6 

1-pound gigantes, extra-large beans

2 tablespoons dry oregano, preferably Greek

2/3 – 1 cup good olive oil

2 onions, coarsely chopped

½ – 1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper, or red pepper flakes, to taste

6-8 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped (as many as you like)

1 1/2 cups chopped dill

1 cup dry white wine

Salt

Soak the beans in water overnight. Drain, place in a pot and cover with plenty of cold water. Bring to a boil, skim, reduce the heat, sprinkle with one tablespoon of oregano, and simmer for 40 min or more, until the beans start to be tender.

Drain, and keep the liquid.

Preheat the oven to 300 F (150 C).

Heat the olive oil in a skillet and sauté the onions for about 8 min. until translucent. Add the Aleppo, or pepper flakes and the garlic, the rest of the oregano and the wine, and cook, stirring for 1 minute then remove from the heat. Add 1 ½ teaspoons salt and pour the sauce into an ovenproof glass or clay casserole. Add the beans and toss with half the dill, and about 1 ½ cups of the bean cooking water.

Cover with the lid or with double aluminum foil and bake for about 1 hour, until the beans are very soft, and most of their liquid has evaporated. Check once during cooking, and if need be, add more cooking liquid.

Uncover the beans, drizzle with olive oil and bake another 10-15 minutes to caramelize the top, then sprinkle with the rest of the dill and serve warm, or at room temperature.

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Photo by Anastasios Mentis.

Makes 4 servings

1 cup dried black-eyed peas

1/ 3 cup olive oil

1 cup chopped onion

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper (optional)

1/ 2 pound lean ground lamb

1 to 2 tablespoons Turkish pepper paste or harissa (North African pepper paste)

1 cup canned chopped tomatoes with their juice

1 to 3 teaspoons Aleppo or Maras pepper or a pinch of hot red pepper flakes, to taste

1 cup dry white wine, vegetable stock, or water

Leaves from 1 bunch of chard, coarsely chopped

Place the peas in a medium saucepan, add cold water to cover by 2 inches, and bring
to a boil. Cook for 5 minutes and drain.

Add fresh water to cover the peas and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for about 15 minutes, or until the peas are just tender. Drain.

Warm the olive oil in a skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and sauté, sprinkling with salt to taste, for about 4 minutes, or until tender.
Add the meat and sauté until firm and no longer pink, about 8 minutes. Add the pepper paste and toss for 30 seconds.

Add the tomatoes, Aleppo pepper, peas, and wine. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the peas are very tender. Add the chard and toss to wilt. There should be only a little sauce in the pan; the dish must have the consistency of a moist pilaf. If it is too watery, increase the heat for a few minutes to reduce the sauce. Taste and add salt, along with pepper if you like. Serve in soup plates or bowls.

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Somehow inspired by the bean’s origin I add turmeric and my mung beans became a richer and more flavorful soup than the original lentils, I feel! This is a very filling Vegan dish.

Serves 6 to 8

2 cups (440 g) mung beans, picked over and rinsed

1/3 cup (80 ml) olive oil

4 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1-2 dried chilies (optional)

2 cups (120 g) diced ripe tomatoes or canned tomatoes with their juice

1/2 cup (120 ml) dry red wine

2-3 bay leaves

1 to 3 teaspoons Maraş pepper, or pinch of crushed red pepper flakes, to taste

1 tablespoon turmeric

Salt, to taste

3 cups (720 ml) vegetable stock or water, or more as needed

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 to 3 teaspoons red wine vinegar, or more to taste

Good, fruity olive oil for drizzling

Place the mung beans in a pot together with half the garlic and the chilies, if using. Add cold water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes, until almost cooked. Remove from the heat.

In a skillet heat the olive oil and sauté the rest of the garlic for a few seconds, until it releases its aroma, but don’t let it color; add the tomato and sauté for 1 minute more. Add this tomato-garlic mixture to the pot with the mung beans, pour in the wine, add the bay leaves, the Maraş pepper or pepper flakes, the turmeric, and salt to taste.

Bring to a boil, and add a little more water if it looks too thick; return to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 10-15 minutes, or until the mung beans are very tender.

Stir in the mustard, 1 teaspoon vinegar, and a few grindings of black pepper and simmer for 2-3 minutes more.

Remove from the heat and taste, to adjust the seasoning; the soup may need more vinegar.

Serve hot or warm, and drizzle each plate with fruity olive oil.

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