Smoked Herring (Rengosalata) or Tarama Spread (Taramosalata)

The recipe evolved from my mother’s rengosalata (smoked herring spread), the meze she always served on Kathari Deftera, when everybody else served taramosalata. Kathari Deftera (clean Monday) is the first of the forty-days Lent that preceed Greek Easter. Bean salad, pickled octopus, cattlefish and/or calamari, cheese-less spinach pie, and crusty lagana (flat bread) are part of the day’s traditional pick nick spread.

An official holiday, Clean Monday marks the end of the Carnaval and the beginning of spring. It is probably the continuation of ancient pagan feasts that have been incorporated to the Christian tradition. People eat outdoors —even if the mooving feast happens on a cold February day—they fly kites, consume lots of wine and ouzo, and dance until sunset.

Makes about 4 cups.

1 cup chopped smoked herring fillets, bones carefully removed, or 2/3 cup good quality pale (not pink) tarama
1 cup blanched almonds, soaked in water for about 3 hours and drained
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 small lemon (zest reserved) peeled and quartered, seeds and thick membranes discarded
4-5 scallions, white and most of the green part, coarsely chopped
2 cups mashed potato, or more, to taste
½ cup light olive oil or sunflower oil
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon fine lemon zest
1/2 cup thick (drained) yogurt (optional, see note)
About 1/4 cup lumpfish roe (optional)
Crusty fresh bread or thin toasted baguette slices, for serving

Put the tarama or smoked herring, almonds, vinegar, lemon and scallions in the bowl of a food processor. Process to a sand-like mixture. Add 2 cups potato, and process briefly. With the motor running pour in slowly the light olive oil and then the extra virgin, until you have a thick creamy paste. Taste and if you find it too salty and strong, add a bit more potato.
Tranfer to a bowl cover and refrigerate for a few hours or, better, overnight. Just before serving, stir in the lemon zest, the yogurt and the lumpfish roe, if you like. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Serve with bread or toasts.

NOTE: The addition of yogurt makes the spread creamier and mild, so that you can serve it with cruditees. You can also use it as sauce for steamed vegetables and fish, if you thin it with a few tablespoons of white wine or water.